RARE VINTAGE OMEGA
WATCHES TO COLLECT

Omega is one of the most prestigious and respected names in the watchmaking world. With its long and illustrious history, Omega has produced a vast array of watches, some of them more rare and desirable than others. Millions of Omega watches have been produced over the decades, but here we highlight some of the rarer vintage Omega watches for collectors to look out for.

Omega: A Reputation for Excellence

Omega has established itself as a leader in both accuracy and reliability. Until the cancellation of Swiss chronometer trials in 1968, Omega dominated the competition, setting records in several categories. Not limiting themselves to timing competitions, Omega was one of the largest producers of chronometer-rated wristwatches for the mass market. It is this depth of quality and choice that encourages collectors to choose vintage Omega.

For years, Omega was seen as superior to its main rival, Rolex, and it produced a more comprehensive range of models. The more recent reversal in brand popularity has made vintage Omega watches more accessible than its Geneva-based competitor and so a popular starting point for watch collectors. They can be sure that, while the watches may be affordable, the value for money is immense.

Early Trench Style Omega Watches

While the wristwatch dates back to the Elizabethan era, the mass production and adoption of wristwatches did not occur until WWI. These ‘wristlets’, as they were known, were adapted from small cases made for ladies’ fob watches. Pristine examples are rare simply due to their age and fragile nature. Omega examples can be found in both gold and silver cases, with collectors particularly prizing the largest sizes to fit with contemporary tastes.

The Omega Marine CK679

Given that dive watches are one of the most popular contemporary designs, it is understandable that brands compete to claim the position of inventor. Watches designed to be water-resistant were available for decades before, but in 1932, Omega claimed a record depth rating, creating a watch not just for swimming but also for diving.

The CK679 was unlike subsequent dive watches in that it had a square case and no rotating bezel. The two-part case was sealed with cork gaskets and was found to be waterproof to 135 metres under laboratory tests. Few Marines have survived in good condition, but it is a pioneering design worth looking out for.

Omega St. Christopher Ref. CK2041

Mention a ‘travel watch’, and one would expect a world-timer or at least a GMT function, but what about the traveller that just wants to feel safe? In 1935, Omega catered for this market by producing the CK2041 ‘St Christopher’, the patron saint of travellers. Its diminutive 28mm case was typical of the time but less common was the relief engraved plaque of the saint carrying Christ in the centre of the dial.

Such small watches are less sought after by modern collectors, but this one commands remarkably high prices. An additional feature is the rotating bezel with an engraved marker, allowing the watch to be used as a rudimentary chronograph. It’s unclear whether you could claim against the warranty should you encounter bad luck on your journey.

The Omega Centenary

The 100-year milestone is a significant achievement for any company, and in 1948 Omega produced a special watch to celebrate its centennial. Presented in a sterling silver box, the Centenary was only produced in 18k yellow gold. There were two Centenary models, the first, ref. 2499 was a 33mm bumper automatic using the 28.10 calibre, Omega’s first automatic movement.

After the initial run of 2000 watches, they produced 4000 of a larger 35mm model, ref. 2500 with an upgraded JUB 30.10 RA PC movement. Six thousand watches may not be scarce, but to find one that is not over-polished, with its original silver box, will take time and dedication.

Seamaster 1956 Melbourne Olympics

Omega has produced several limited edition and anniversary watches throughout its rich history. But none are as prestigious and rare as the Seamaster 1956 Melbourne Olympics model. The 1956 Melbourne Olympics was the first time Omega released such a limited-edition wristwatch. It marked the 25th anniversary of Omega’s involvement as the official timing partner of the Olympic Games.

Two forms of the Seamaster ref. 2850 SC were produced, a non-limited version with gold applied Romal Numerals XVI added to the dial at 6 o’clock, the Olympic Cross of Merit in the centre of the case back and Seamaster XVI above. A second, rarer example exists, identical except that the dial features the Olympic rings over the cross of merit design rather than the Roman Numerals.

The stories around the two versions are as varied as the supposed numbers made. Some say that the rarer versions were never retailed and were handed out as gifts to dignitaries at the games, others that the Olympic committee never approved the dial design and so had to be pulled (doubtful, as the same design appears on all the cases backs).

Numbers made are estimated as low as 100, which is unlikely, given how many are offered in the vintage market. The limited version was probably available only at the Games, while the XVI version was distributed worldwide for the rest of the Olympic year. Whatever the truth, the first Omega Olympic limited edition is a rare beauty worth adding to any collection.

First Military Omega Seamaster 300

Possibly the most crucial year for new watch launches was 1957 when Omega presented their ‘trilogy’ of Speedmaster, Seamaster, and Railmaster. Early examples of these are all rarities worth hunting, but for extra cachet, how about a Military Seamaster produced for just one year?

The W10 marked Seamaster ST 165.024 was delivered to the British Army in 1967 ahead of the larger 0552 stamped Navy order that arrived the following year. Collectors of these watches instinctively look for the large luminous triangle at 12 o’clock, the thick fixed lug bars, the ‘circle T’ dial indication for tritium and a screw-down crown, all missing on this version and only appearing on the 1968 delivery.

While it might lack the recognisable characteristics, it is far rarer, with an estimated fifty times less made than the Navy version. Oddly, this rarity doesn’t inflate the price as collectors prefer the more distinctive design, making this a more accessible prize piece if you can find one.

Value for Money

Omega is a treasure trove of rare watches to collect. While the pieces highlighted above are highly sought after, the sheer variety of models and designs produced makes it easy to find an unusual combination of case and dial design in Omega vintage watches. Given that these were mass-produced watches for daily wear, it is important to consider condition as well as scarcity. Finding a sixty – or seventy-year-old watch in good, lightly polished condition with an original dial and movement is far more challenging and perhaps satisfying.

Vintage Gold Watches specialises in vintage Omegas and handles hundreds of authentic and original Omega watches every year, as can be seen in our large vintage Omega collection. Nonetheless, if you are searching for a rare vintage Omega watch that we do not have in our current collection, do not hesitate to get in touch. We will be more than happy to scour the market on your behalf to find your perfect vintage Omega piece.

Adrian Hailwood

WATCH EXPERT AND SPECIALIST AT VINTAGE GOLD WATCHES

With over 30 years of experience, watches are both a career and a passion for Adrian. He has worked with companies such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Breguet, and has held senior positions at watch auctioneers, both traditional and online. Since 2017, Adrian has worked as an independent specialist, providing watch expertise and is one of the few Specialist Watch Valuers in the UK. His work has featured in publications like The Telegraph, The Financial Times, and GQ Magazine.