THE BEST VINTAGE
ROLEX WATCHES TO COLLECT

The Rolex Prince, though perhaps not as widely recognised as other Rolex models, holds immense significance in the brand’s heritage. It played a pivotal role in elevating Rolex to the upper echelons of luxury watch manufacturing nearly a century ago.

The original Rolex Prince watches were renowned for their exceptional timekeeping precision. Many Prince models featured two dials, making them particularly popular among doctors who could easily time a patient’s pulse using the easily readable seconds hand positioned at the bottom of the dial. Consequently, it earned the nickname “the doctors’ watch.”

The Rolex Prince Jump Hour was the world’s first true digital watch, featuring an aperture window at the top of the dial with an hour indicator wheel. By observing the Rolex Prince Jump Hour, one can notice, for instance, the red “10,” indicating the time as 10:30 and 30 seconds. Production of the Prince Jump Hour ceased in the late 1940s when the art-deco style fell out of fashion, but it was revived in 2005.

This particular model, crafted from exceptionally rare 18-carat yellow and white gold, is the Chronometer version and remains in its original, unrestored, and untouched condition. The movement housed within this timepiece is of remarkable quality. Introduced by the founder of Rolex, Hans Wilsdorf, in December 1930, the Rolex Extra Prima is a 15-jewel hand-wound movement used only in Rolex’s highest-quality watches during that era. It represents an extraordinary example of a truly historic watch, solidifying its position among the more coveted vintage Rolex models to collect.

A note regarding rectangular cases: When acquiring a rectangular or square watch, it is crucial to ensure that the case exhibits no signs of wear, fatigue cracks, or pinholes, particularly around the hinge and corners. These types of cases are prone to wear and tear in these areas, which contributes to their rarity. In some cases, the damage sustained by the cases may render them irreparable and unable to be restored.

Its exquisite art-deco design lends itself to a more formal or dress watch, despite gaining considerable popularity for its practical features. With its historical significance in Rolexes history and its unique design, the Rolex Prince definitely deserves a place in your vintage Rolex collection.

The launch of the Rolex Turn-O-Graph was highly significant in the development of Rolex as a company and for watch-making innovation in general. The Ref. 6202, released 70 years ago in 1953, was Rolex’s first sports watch but that first was outshone by the revolutionary design of the graduated, rotating bezel.

The Turn-O-Graph features a stainless steel case, typically measuring 36mm in diameter, although there have been variations with larger case sizes over the years. It has a screw-down crown that ensures water resistance and protects the movement from moisture and dust.

One of the distinctive elements of the Turn-O-Graph is its rotating bezel with a graduated scale. The bezel can be turned in both directions and is typically marked with 60-minute graduations or hour markers, allowing the wearer to track time or measure elapsed intervals, similar to a chronograph, without the cost of a complicated chronograph calibre. This successful innovation was quickly adopted by many brands after Rolex’s introduction.

Looking at the earliest examples, it’s clear Rolex’s Turn-O-Graph was the testing ground for the Rolex Submariner. Both of them looked remarkably similar. The Submariner went on to become Rolex’s most popular sports watch, however, it’s the Turn-O-Graph which broke new ground.

The model Ref. 6202 was replaced in 1954 by the much-revised model Ref: 6309 which effectively returned the Turn-O-Graph to the Datejust family as a date function. A cyclops window was added along with the new engine-turned bezel with markers every five and ten minutes and can be seen on Turn-O-Graphs ever since. The invention of the cyclops date window is a fascinating story. By chance, Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf splashed a drop of water on his watch and immediately noticed how it magnified the date. He quickly ushered in the cyclops – reminiscent of a drop of water – as an easy way to read the date.

The Ref. 6202 looks very similar to this Turn-O-Graph model ref.1625 that is currently for sale at Vintage Gold Watches. The Ref. 1625 was launched in 1958 and enjoyed continuous production until 1977. Model Ref. 1625 is a fantastic example of a scarce Datejust Turn-O-Graph in excellent condition. The example you see here is an early, extremely rare and collectable, 18-carat pink gold Turn-O-Graph with the original Rolex 18-carat pink gold bracelet. So rare is it that we have never seen a pink gold Turn-O-Graph in its original pink gold bracelet in the wild before.

The original, high-grade “Officially Certified Superlative Chronometer”, 26 Jewel, Calibre 1560 movement is highly regarded for being extremely accurate, reliable and strong. This was also the first movement to incorporate the instant date change at midnight. It’s rare enough to find a Pink Gold Turn-O-Graph as early as this one, but to find one complete with its original Pink Gold bracelet is practically unheard of. Vintage gold Rolex Datejust watches are highly collectable and the rarity of this watch means the value will forever remain strong.

Introduced in 1945, the Rolex Datejust revolutionised the watch industry as the world’s first self-winding wristwatch with a date feature. Its exceptional waterproof capabilities, along with its remarkable accuracy and reliability, earned it widespread acclaim during that time.

The Datejust made its debut in what was considered at the time a large size, measuring 36mm in diameter (excluding the Rolex screw-down crown). It also distinguished itself by featuring a central seconds hand, unlike the more common subsidiary seconds dial. This timeless design swiftly became an emblem of style and excellence, retaining its production and development for over 70 years with minimal design alterations.

In 1956, Rolex introduced the Day-Date, which, alongside the Datejust, continues to hold the position of Rolex’s premier men’s line of dress watches. However, early Datejust models are rarer and highly sought after, commanding higher prices than the Day-Date. As Michael Caine might say, not a lot of people know this but the “just” in Datejust signifies “just in time,” highlighting the watch’s ability to instantaneously advance the date at midnight without any delay.

The 1950s were the halcyon days of elegant men’s dresses watches in general and Rolex dials in particular. A masterpiece of timeless style, simplicity and elegance, this Ref.6105 18-carat 1952 model has a rare dial with ‘dagger’ and ‘spearhead’ hour indices that is difficult to find and quite sought after. Here in ivory cream, it contrasts beautifully with the yellow gold case. With the original ‘lance’ hands and yellow centre seconds as well as the rare red date wheel, this watch is brimming with 1950s charm and elegance.

This watch was crafted from 18ct solid gold, as were all such models during the initial seven years of this model’s production. It bears the distinguished Rolex model reference 6105 and is powered by the revered Rolex Chronometer grade Cal.A296 movement, adorned with 18 jewels. Such extraordinary quality and impeccable condition are a rarity among early Datejust watches, making this particular piece a true gem from the early production years and would be a shrewd addition to any vintage Rolex collection.