Rolex Prince Chronometer 9ct White & Yellow Gold 1928/29

Rolex

The late 1920s and early ’30s saw Rolex at its most creative and dynamic. Having launched the world’s first truly waterproof and commercially successful (Oyster) watch in 1926, this relatively young company, est. 1906, went on to launch its first automatic waterproof wristwatch, the Oyster Perpetual Chronometer in 1934. These groundbreaking achievements are the foundations on which the company we know today was built. However, even at this early stage of development, this highly ambitious company offered a wide range of models to the market, many of which we seldom see today, due to relatively low production numbers.

Description

The Rolex Prince with the two dials is often referred to as a ‘doctors watch’ or ‘duo-dial’. The large seconds dial enabling the wearer to time heart beats, etc more accurately.  The Rolex Prince was first produced in 1928 and it has a special movement, initially made by Aegler and Wilsdorf , when in 1927 a patent was filed for a “shaped watch movement with a seconds dial”. In this new watch the winding barrel and the balance wheel were at opposite ends of the movement allowing for a larger balance wheel and thus more accuracy. A larger winding barrel also meant that the watch could run for longer on a single wind.

Here we have the incredibly rare, 9ct yellow and white gold vintage Rolex Prince Chronometer which was manufactured in the first year of production and remains incredible, previously restored condition.

The Dial

As mentioned above this rare Rolex Prince dial was made with a purpose. This particular example has a previously restored silver-white dial with breguet style standard Arabic numerals, a minute railtrack completes the top dial and the dial carries a perfectly proportioned subsidiary seconds dial at the bottom. Both the dials on this watch are swept by blued steel hands. All of these many aspects piece this wonderful watch together perfectly.

This watch is signed ‘Rolex Prince’ and ‘Chronometer’ in the centre of the top dial and ‘Swiss Made’ at the very bottom of the dial.

This dial has been previously restored to a very high standard, yet remains in outstanding condition.

The Movement

This watch is fitted with a 15 jewel timed to 6 positions Rolex Chronometer Observatory movement. The Rolex 15 Jewel hand-wound movement used in Rolex’s highest quality watches of this period. The movement is in very clean condition having just completed a full overhaul and service by our vintage Rolex specialist watchmaker. This means it has been completely dismantled to each of its component parts before cleaning and inspection under high magnification, replacement where necessary with only genuine Rolex parts, then careful reassembly, adjustments and oiling to Rolex specification, before final calibration and testing.

The movement is therefore now running accurately and within expectations of 30 seconds per day. The timing expected of a Rolex movement of this period is within 1 minute per day, and this is our guarantee. The power reserve when fully wound on this movement is 30 hours. We are therefore confident in offering this watch with a 12-month written warranty*. Please note, Rolex watches of this period are reliable and accurate by the standards of their day, however they do need to be treated with extra care.

The movement is signed ‘Rolex Observatory Quality’, ‘Timed 6 Positions’, ‘15 Rubies’ and ‘For All Climates’, this movement also carries the Rolex serial number 7514.

*Please note – our 12 months’ warranty is only applicable if the full list price is paid.

The Watch Case

This watch has a particularly elegantly shaped case with attractive elongated lugs in a mix of 9ct yellow gold and 9ct white gold. It measures 24mm across, excluding the correct Rolex unsigned crown, and 36mm from top to bottom. This may seem a little small, but it is, in fact, quite a large watch for the period, especially when one considers it is 48mm across the diagonal, including the lugs. The two-piece case is not hinged, but is opened using the bottom lip and swings open, revealing the dial. The movement can then be removed without any tools by holding the upper case and gently lifting the case back away from the main case – not recommended for the inexperienced or faint at heart.

When acquiring such a rectangular or square watch, it is important to ensure the case shows no wear, no fatigue cracks and no pinholes, particularly around the hinge and corner areas. This type of case is prone to wear and damage in these areas, which is another reason these watches are rare, as cases become beyond repair and restoration. Fortunately, this example has been extremely well cared for and very lightly used, so other than our usual careful examination and cleaning, the case has required little work apart from some very light hand-polishing.

The case carries all the correct signatures – ‘Rolex’, ’7 World Records’ and ‘Geneve Suisse’ with the correct 9K hallmark. On the outside of the case back it is signed correctly with the Rolex reference number 64936 and 971. 9ct Uk hallmarks stamped in 1929, this then leads us to believe the watch was manufactured in Switzerland in 1928.

As always, our standard advice applies: Vintage watches should be kept clean and dry at all times.

The Strap & Buckle

The watch is fitted with a genuine Rolex black leather strap and gold-plated Rolex buckle. However, if a different colour or style of strap is preferred, please let us know and we will do our best to oblige free of charge. We carry tan, conker, dark brown and black in stock in plain padded leather, crocodile skin or lizard skin. We can also obtain most types and colours from our partners at ‘Watch Obsession’ within 48hrs. Please take a look at their huge range of straps if you wish here.

Box and Papers

Although there is no original paperwork with this watch, the reference numbers, markings, signatures and hallmarks are all correct, dating the watch to 1929.

Detailed particulars will be included with our purchase receipt for your interest and security. A separate insurance valuation for the replacement value of this watch will be provided at the time of sale along with our unique ‘Lifetime Authenticity Guarantee’ which states: “If this watch proves to be anything less than 100% genuine, authentic and original, a full refund will be given at any time”.

The Rolex presentation box shown in the photographs is included with this watch.

Payment and Delivery

If you would like to pay by bank transfer, we will be pleased to assist you with this and pass on a 3% saving to you. Paying by bank transfer for a 3% saving will not affect your 12 months warranty. Similarly, if you wish to pay by International SWIFT or Bank Wire Transfer we will provide you with our BIC / Swift number and our IBAN number.

Please check the import duties and any taxes your government may apply, these are different for each country and, unfortunately, out of our control.

We understand there may be some ‘loopholes’ that may help you avoid these charges; however, attempting to use these could impact our ongoing ability to serve our growing international customer base.

For those who happen to visit London on occasion, we are, of course, more than happy to store your watch until we can meet you in our offices in Kensington, London, and hand your watch directly to you there.

As with all our watches, this watch will be sold under our 14 days no-quibble sale or return policy.

In Conclusion

This is a truly rare and collectable example of a 1929 vintage Rolex hand-wound watch which is ready to wear and completely practical for everyday use. If treated with care, it will make an excellent investment or heirloom piece and even though vintage gold Rolex prices have risen markedly recently, we still feel good examples such as this are still undervalued. As each year goes by and the world market for vintage gold Rolex watches continues to expand, prices will continue to climb ever higher.

A word on our prices – We always try our hardest to acquire the very highest quality watches we can find, before restoring them to the highest possible standards. We then offer these at the fairest prices we can, taking into account our pre and post-sales care and service. This approach means we will never be the cheapest, but nor will we be the most expensive. Indeed there are some well-known stores in West London which are highly successful charging between two to three times the price you see here. We, therefore, consider our prices to be fair, given the quality of watches we have to offer.

Please note, we also welcome part exchanges. If you have a watch or a small collection for sale, please contact us as we will be happy to discuss this.

We will also be happy to Service your watch, Repair your watch or Restore your watch, all at ‘sensible’ prices. Please see here.

If you have any questions please call us on 020 7727 7095 or if calling from overseas on +44 207 727 7095.

Please take a look at our other fine vintage gold watches.

Thank you.