Patek Philippe Calatrava Model Ref. 3893 18ct 1975

Patek Philippe

Simply the finest watch money can buy….

Even today, Patek Philippe’s extraordinary care and commitment to perfection means it takes almost a year to manufacture even its simplest watch movement.

Some significant moments in watchmaking since 1839 …

– 1839 Antoine Patek began producing about 200 high-quality pocket watches per year
– 1845 Patek & Co. Partnership founded in Geneva with Jean Adrien Philippe, Technical Director
– 1846 Tiffany & Co. New York, Tiffany appoints Patek Philippe as its principal supplier of pocket watches
– 1857 Universal Exposition, London, Queen Victoria and Prince Albert buy a timepiece, shooting Patek to international fame
– 1867 the company produces the world’s first wristwatch
– 1927 the company produces the world’s first perpetual calendar wristwatch
– 1941 the company produces the world’s first perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch
– 1962 the company produces the world’s first automatic, perpetual calendar wristwatch

It is said that fewer than 1 million Patek Philippe watches have been made since its first watch was completed in 1839. This is fewer than some high-end Swiss manufacturers (notably Rolex) produce in one year. In fact, the company limits itself to producing less than 50,000 watches per year, even though it is estimated by watch market analysts, the company could sell ten times this figure. Patek production is so precise, detailed and intricate, it takes almost a year to complete its most basic watch and more than two years to produce many of the more complicated timepieces.

Patek’s vintage complications hold more world record prices at auction than any other brand. Landmark models include the Patek model ref. 1518 – the world’s first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph – and its successor, the Patek ref. 2499. Other famous models include perpetual calendars such as the ref. 1526, ref. 3448 and 3450.

We of course associate Patek Philippe with the very best, but also understated elegance, craftsmanship, heritage, exquisite design, perfection and precision, and total confidence and commitment in everything it does.

Description

The style and design of Patek’s model reference 3893 reflects both 1950s classic and modern Calatrava. Even to the trained eye, one could convince oneself this watch carries a 1950s type enamel or porcelain dial, – more on this later. The Dauphine style hands, small Pencil hour indices and outer minutes ring are each classic elements of 1950s dial design. However, this watch carries a much more modern Patek Calibre 215 movement and a slightly more modern case design, with a sapphire glass lens.

The Dial

It is difficult to show the true beauty of this ivory cream dial in photographs. The dial has a deep, almost glass-like lustre, redolent of Patek’s enamel or porcelain dials of the 1940s and 1950s. This, along with the overall design, with its subsidiary seconds dial at 6, and its Dauphine hands and pencil hour indices, create the appearance, at least within the dial, of one of Patek’s very high-quality early Calatrava watches from around the middle of the last century.

Porcelain or enamel dials are so-called because they have a coating of porcelain enamel over a metal alloy dial. Although this looks wonderful and does not fade, it is very hard to create and can be subject to cracking or crazing. Here, Patek has magically recreated this finish while avoiding the risks associated with the original process. It is hard to describe, other than to say it’s very special and makes other dials look plain by comparison.

The classic symmetry and balance of this dial are unbeatable. The dial is simply signed ‘Patek Philippe, Geneve’, with ‘Swiss’ at the very bottom. It is one of the most elegant modern examples of Patek’s signature ‘Calatrava’ dial style.

This is the original unrestored and untouched dial and it is in superb condition.

Movement

Here we have Patek Philippe’s Calibre 215, 18 jewels, 28,800 bph, hand-wound movement. This movement carries a Gyromax balance, free-sprung regulator, lever movement with a power reserve of 44 hrs. It is Geneva Seal hallmarked.

As can be seen, this movement is in spectacular condition. The Geneva wave finishing on the bridge and plates, and the bevelled edging throughout has all been applied by hand, 45 years ago, and looks as beautifully bright and fresh today as the day it was sold.

These 18 jewel movements are beautifully crafted, and designed and created to the very highest possible standards. This is a high beat 28,800 bph movement and naturally, very reliable and accurate. This makes this a perfect watch for everyday use, or evening wear, as you so wish.

This movement is in superb condition indicating this watch has been properly cared for and regularly serviced.

The movement has been fully overhauled and serviced by our Master Watchmaker. This means dismantling the movement to each of its component parts, careful inspection under high magnification, replacement where necessary with only genuine Patek parts, then careful reassembly and adjustment, before final calibration in 5 positions. The movement winds sets and runs accurately and reliably and upon final testing and calibration, it is running precisely at ±0 seconds per day averaged over 5 positions! This is simply outstanding for any watch of this age. We are therefore highly confident in offering our 12-month warranty* with this watch.

The movement is all correctly signed, ‘Patek Philippe & Co.’, ‘Geneve’ and ‘Swiss’, with the Calibre number 215 and the movement serial number 1355840, which dates this watch to 1975.

*Please note – our 12 months’ warranty is only applicable if the full list price is paid.

The Case

The case design is classic Calatrava, but with slightly modern influences. Here the lens is made of sapphire glass as opposed to the hard acrylic of the earlier watches. The case is also a two-piece design instead of three. This is for both strengths and to make it more impervious to the elements.

The condition is outstanding, indicating the watch has seen only very light use and proper care. It is as sturdy and tight as the day it was made, with all parts pressing together with a very firm ‘pop’. There are no scratches, other marks, or signs of wear visible to the naked eye.

Inside the case, the case-back all is signed correctly and as expected: ‘Patek Philippe & Co.’, ‘Geneve’, ‘Swiss’, with Swiss 18ct hallmarks, the case serial number 2819154 and the Patek Philippe Model Reference number 3893.

As ever, our standard advice applies: Vintage watches should be kept clean and dry at all times.

The Strap and Buckle

The watch is fitted with a high-quality black Alligator strap complete with the original solid 18ct gold Patek Philippe buckle. However, if a different colour or style of strap is preferred, please let us know and we will do our best to oblige free of charge. We carry tan, conker, dark brown and black straps in stock in plain padded leather, crocodile skin or lizard skin. We can also obtain most types and colours from our partners at ‘Watch Obsession’ within 48hrs.

The Box and Papers

Although there are no original papers with the watch, all the numbers and markings are all correct, dating this watch to 1975.

Our detailed Watch Particulars document will be included with the receipt, along with our 12 months’ warranty*. A separate insurance valuation for the replacement value of this watch will also be provided at the time of sale, along with our unique ‘Lifetime Authenticity Guarantee, which states: “If this watch proves to be anything less than totally authentic, or not as described, Vintage Gold Watches of London will offer you a full refund at any time”.

This watch comes complete with a high quality hardwood presentation box as shown.

In Conclusion

Here we have a truly desirable vintage gold dress watch from horology’s most revered name which is truly a thing of beauty – to wear, use, treasure and enjoy. It will also make an excellent investment and family heirloom piece. Even though Patek prices continue to rise, we still feel outstanding examples such as this remain undervalued, particularly compared to the price of a new Patek Philippe.

As each year goes by and the world market for vintage Patek Philippe watches expands, availability will become ever more limited, meaning prices are destined to climb ever higher!

A word on our prices – We always try our hardest to acquire the very highest quality watches we can find, before restoring these to the highest possible standards. We then offer these at the fairest prices we can, taking into account our pre and post-sales care and service. This approach inevitably means we will never be the cheapest, but nor will we be the most expensive. Indeed there are many well-known stores in West London which are very successful charging between two to three times our prices. We therefore consider our prices to be very fair, given the quality of watches we have to offer.

We are happy to accept PayPal as this is the quickest method of payment. However, if you would wish to pay by bank transfer, we will be pleased to pass on a 3% transaction saving to you. Similarly, if you wish to pay by International SWIFT or International Bank Wire Transfer, we will provide you with our BIC / Swift number and our IBAN number.

Please note, we also welcome part exchanges and offers of watches for sale.

We will be happy to Service your watch, Repair your watch or Restore your watch, all at ‘sensible’ prices. Please see here.

If you have any questions please call us on 020 7727 7095 or if calling from overseas on +44 207 727 7095.

Finally, please enjoy some time spent viewing our other fine Vintage Gold Watches!

Thank you.