Longines Flagship Ref.503 18ct Pink Gold 1956

Longines

Longines is one of the oldest Swiss watch manufacturers with an unparalleled history of invention, innovation, patents and awards. The company is also responsible for some of the most beautiful watches ever made. For a long time, something of a Cinderella among the watch collecting fraternity, Longines is now rightfully returning to the elevated status they once held in the pre and post-war years. It is only relatively recently that Longines vintage watches have returned to the admiration and popularity they deserve, with values rising between 15 and 20% per year. Certain models, however, such as the now legendary Longines Calibre 13ZN chronograph have sky-rocketed.

Description

Here we have a superb, fully original, unrestored and untouched example of the Longines Flagship from 1956 when from a technical standpoint, Longines was competing head to head with and beating almost all of the other Swiss watch manufacturers. The incredible Flagship we see here carries a rare and beautiful ‘sunburst’ dial, a large 18ct pink gold case and the high grade Longines Calibre 30LS hand-wound movement which is very highly regarded for its accuracy and reliability. This watch also carries the Flagship motif on the case-back which is clear and distinct, indicating this watch has seen little use and has not been over-polished.

The Dial

During the 1950s and 1960s, Longines excelled in every aspect of watch design. The company was rightfully held in very high regard for the quality of its movements and close examination of any of its watch cases reveals equal high attention to design, quality, purpose and perfection. We also firmly believe Longines ‘Classic’ vintage dial designs were generally a step ahead in terms of elegance and sophistication. The pink ‘starburst’ dial design here is a great example of Longines ‘less is more’ approach to dial design. Everything is in perfect proportion and balance and the dial just works so well.

The completely original, unrestored and untouched pink gilt ‘dauphine’ hands are matched with gilt ‘baton’ hour indices and pair beautifully. These stunning features are framed by a ‘maypole’ effect around the edge of the dial. The Longines name sits perfectly over the applied Longines ‘Winged Hourglass’  logo, which is actually the oldest registered trademark of any watch manufacturer, and the dial is signed ‘Flagship’ at the bottom, just above 6.

The dial is original and unrestored and has been left untouched by our restoration team due to its superb condition. Usually, we restore the dials of the watches we sell, however we decided in this case to leave it alone, due to its unusually good condition and to retain its originality and charm for those who prefer this. It also helps to contrast with almost all of the other watch dials you see on our website, which have been restored. The hands, likewise, have also been left in their original condition.

Please note, studio lights, professional-grade digital cameras, and macro lenses can be very unkind to an unrestored vintage watch dial. Also the dial here measures less than 1.25 inches across, so the image you’re seeing may be between 5 – 25 times larger than the watch itself. Therefore please keep in mind you are seeing many tiny flaws which cannot be seen, or will be very hard to see with the naked eye, even under close examination. Suffice to say, on the wrist, in natural light, this dial looks much better and carries a great deal more charm than the photographs portray.

The Movement

The original Longines Calibre 30LS, 17 Jewel hand-wound movement here is a real gem with gold chatons, large balance wheel, Swiss lever escapement, Incabloc shock resistance and subsidiary seconds. This is all much admired in watchmaking circles, particularly the large, screw-weighted balance wheel which provides for greater accuracy and finer adjustment. Everything else being equal, the larger the balance wheel, the more accurate the watch.

If ever one wished to highlight a great example of a top quality classic hand-wound watch movement, this movement could easily be chosen. The quality of finishing and build is exceptional and better finished than anything offered by Rolex of the same period. Note, for example, each jewel is held in its own threaded gold sleeve, which is then in turn screwed into the plates. This is a much more sophisticated method than those which simply fitted their jewels into drilled holes in the bridges, such as was the practice of Rolex and Omega of the same period.

The high grade 30L series hand-wound movement is one of Longines most successful, remaining in production, in-house, for over 12 years from 1955 onwards. The movement is fitted with an “incabloc” device which protects it against shocks and magnetic fields. Thanks to its large balance, the movement can be regulated with great precision.

Following its restoration, overhaul and service, the Calibre 30LS movement here is in immaculate condition. The movement has been completely disassembled, cleaned, inspected and rebuilt using only original Longines parts where required and when tested and calibrated, this watch was running to within +8 seconds per day, which is outstanding for a vintage watch of this age! When fully wound, this movement also has a 42-hour power reserve.

The movement is signed ‘Longines Swiss’ and ‘17 Jewels’ with the Calibre No. 30LS, and the Serial No.10011664. This serial number dates this watch to 1956.

These movements are strong, accurate and very reliable making the watch appropriate for regular everyday use. This particular movement is in top condition and with regular servicing, every 3 years or so we would fully expect this watch to give faithful service for many more decades to come! We are pleased to offer a 12-month warranty on this watch movement* and regular servicing in the future, as required.

*Please note – our 12 months’ warranty is only applicable if the full list price is paid.

The Watch Case

The 18ct pink gold case has straight swept back lugs which raise the case slightly on the wrist and emphasises its presence. At 35mm in diameter, excluding the Longines signed crown, this watch is large for the period. The case is of a three-piece design with a screw-down case-back which carries the beautiful Flagship motif on the case-back. This is clear and crisp indicating this watch has received very little use and has not been over-polished.

The case has been professionally cleaned and lightly polished and is in superb condition and the crown is, of course, an original signed Longines crown. The case is in immaculate condition with no scratches, dings or other marks visible to the naked eye and shows no signs of anything other than very light and careful use.

Inside the Longines Swiss made case is signed ‘Longines’, ‘Fab Suisse’, and ‘Swiss Made’, with Swiss Geneva 18ct hallmarks and ‘Flagship’ plus the Longines model reference 503.

Please note: Our standard advice applies: Vintage Watches should be kept clean and dry at all times.

The Strap & Buckle

A high quality burgundy leather strap has been fitted, along with a plain pink gold-plated buckle. However, if a different colour or style of strap is preferred, please let us know and we will do our best to oblige free of charge. We carry tan, conker, dark brown and black in stock in plain padded leather, crocodile skin or lizard skin. We can also obtain most types and colours from our partners at ‘Watch Obsession’ within 48hrs. Please take a look at their huge range of straps if you wish here.

The Box and Papers

Although there are no original papers with the watch, the numbers and markings are all correct, dating this watch to 1956.

Detailed particulars will be included with our purchase receipt for your interest and security. A separate insurance valuation for the replacement value of this watch will also be provided at the time of sale along with our unique ‘Lifetime Authenticity Guarantee’ which states: “If this watch proves to be anything less than 100% genuine, authentic and original, a full refund will be given at any time”.

The watch comes complete with a Longines presentation box, as shown in the photographs.

Payment and Delivery

If you would like to pay by bank transfer, we will be pleased to assist you with this and pass on a 3% saving to you. Paying by bank transfer for a 3% saving will not affect your 12 months warranty. Similarly, if you wish to pay by International SWIFT or Bank Wire Transfer we will provide you with our BIC / Swift number and our IBAN number.

Please check the import duties and any taxes your government may apply as these are different for each country and unfortunately out of our control. We understand there may be some ‘loopholes’ that may help you avoid these charges; however, attempting to use these could impact our ongoing ability to serve our growing international customer base.

For those who happen to visit London on occasion, we are, of course, more than happy to store your watch until we can meet you in our offices in Kensington, London, and hand your watch directly to you there.

As with all our watches, this watch will be sold under our 14 days no-quibble sale or return policy.

In Conclusion

We have here a rare, useable and highly collectable vintage gold gentleman’s dress watch from one horology’s most highly respected names which is something of beauty, to use, wear, treasure and enjoy! This watch will also make an excellent investment and family heirloom piece. Even though vintage Longines prices have continued to rise markedly in the past 2-3 years, we still feel fine examples such as this are undervalued.  As each year goes by and the world market for vintage gold watches continues to expand, availability will become more limited, so prices are surely destined to climb ever higher! This is a wonderful example of one of the most beautiful and sought after vintage Longines available.

A word on our prices – We always try our hardest to acquire the very highest quality watches we can find, before restoring them to the highest possible standards. We then offer these at the fairest prices we can, taking into account our pre and post-sales care and service. This approach means we will never be the cheapest, but nor will we be the most expensive. Indeed there are some well-known stores in West London which are highly successful charging between two to three times the price you see here. We, therefore, consider our prices to be fair, given the quality of watches we have to offer.

Please note, we also welcome part exchanges. If you have a watch or a small collection for sale, please contact us as we will be happy to discuss this.

We will also be happy to Service your watch, Repair your watch or Restore your watch, all at ‘sensible’ prices. Please see here.

If you have any questions please call us on 020 7727 7095 or if calling from overseas on +44 207 727 7095.

Please take a look at our other fine vintage gold watches.

Thank you.