Jaeger-LeCoultre Cal.P812 Bumper Automatic 9ct 1955

Jaeger-LeCoultre

Perhaps the most interesting, creative and adventurous of all the major high-end watchmakers, Jaeger-LeCoultre, founded in 1833, has had an incredibly inventive history, developing over 1,250 mechanical calibres, registering over 400 Patents and playing a tremendous role in the development of the industry as a whole. Whether it is the keyless watch, Calibre 101, the iconic Reverso or the Memovox alarm, it would be difficult to imagine a historical account of watchmaking without the mention of Jaeger-LeCoultre. The company has always been a true ‘Manufacturer’ of the finest quality watch movements. This is unusual because more often than not, high-end brands such as Rolex, Patek Phillippe, Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin would often buy in movements for particular needs. For example, in 1967 when Patek Phillippe, Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin needed an ultra-thin automatic movement, it was to Jaeger-LeCoultre they turned, to produce one for them. Furthermore, the exquisite Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 920, is still in production and in use today by both Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet.

Description

Classic time only automatic watches have a purity and charm all of their own and there has been a resurgence of interest in these of late, particularly at the higher end, where the finest movements are found. Here we have a simply wonderful example, characterised by a rare ‘tropical’ unrestored dial and wonderful 9ct yellow gold case. At 34mm, excluding the sunken crown, this is an oversized watch by the standards of the period.

The Dial

This wonderful dial is original, unrestored and untouched and considering the age of the watch, is also in really incredible condition. The dial appears ‘tropicalised’ which is due to considerable exposure to sunlight, turning the centre section of the dial a beautiful honey colour and the added slight pitting and spotting make this dial one of a kind. Therefore, due to its relatively good condition and for reasons of retaining the character and the originality of the watch, we have left it completely alone.

The dial carries honey-coloured 1- 12 standard Arabic numerals which are swept by original blue framed hands ad the dial is completed with a centre minute rail track. Each of these features add to the class and originality of the watch.

As this dial is in original, unrestored condition, this has been left untouched by our restoration team due to its superb condition. Usually, we restore the dials of the watches we sell, however we decided in this case to leave it alone, due to its unusually good condition and to retain its originality and charm for those who prefer this. It also helps to contrast with almost all of the other watch dials you see on our website, which have been restored. The hands, likewise, have also been left in their original untouched condition.

Please note, studio lights, professional-grade digital cameras, and macro lenses can be very unkind to an unrestored vintage watch dial. Also the dial here measures less than 1.25 inches across, so the image you’re seeing may be between 5 – 25 times larger than the watch itself. Therefore please keep in mind you are seeing many tiny flaws which cannot be seen, or will be very hard to see with the naked eye, even under close examination. Suffice to say, on the wrist, in natural light, this dial looks much better and carries a great deal more charm than the photographs portray.

The Movement

Jaeger-LeCoultre movements are amongst the highest quality and top tier of most highly regarded Swiss watch manufacturers. The movement used in this watch is the Jaeger LeCoultre Calibre P812, introduced in 1955 and a superb 17 jewel example of a classic ‘bumper’ automatic. A bumper self-winding movement means the watch is wound by means of an oscillating rotor that travels through a 180 degree arc, being arrested by buffer springs that then bounce the rotor back in its original direction. The bounce can just be felt if one rotates the watch slowly from side to side, but in normal use, one is seldom conscious of its ‘pulse’. Indeed it is quite an endearing character of the vintage watch.

This is the original movement, which as can be seen, is in sparkling condition having just been fully overhauled and serviced by our Master Watchmaker. This involves complete disassembly of the entire watch movement, close inspection of all critical parts under high magnification and then replacement where necessary, using only original manufacturer parts. The following stage is lubrication using individually specified lubricants for differing parts of the movement and careful re-assembly before regulating / timing. The watch winds and sets smoothly and is currently keeping accurate time, consistently, to within 12 seconds per day! This is outstanding for any vintage watch of this age. We therefore we have no hesitation in offering this watch with our 12 months warranty*.

The movement is signed ‘Jaeger-Le Coultre’ and ‘Fab Suisse’ with the Calibre  P812. 

*Please note, our 12 months’ warranty is only applicable if the list price is paid.

The Watch Case

The good-sized high quality 9ct yellow gold watch case measures 34mm in diameter, excluding the correct unsigned, sunken Jaeger crown. This two-piece ribbed case is multi-faceted and beautifully designed with wonderful sculptured lugs. The lugs are swept back and hold the case slightly prouder on the wrist. The press-fit case-back is a nice tight fit and importantly, is of full thickness, having never been engraved.

Externally, the case-back carries the serial number 97184.

The watch has clearly been very well cared for and has seen little use as the case has no dings, scratches or marks visible to the naked eye.

Please note – our standard advice applies: Vintage watches should be kept clean and dry at all times.

The Strap and Buckle

The watch is fitted with a high quality brown crocodile strap and a plain gold plated buckle. However, if a different colour or style of strap is preferred, please let us know and we will do our best to oblige, free of charge. We carry tan, conker, dark brown burgundy and black straps in stock, in plain padded leather, alligator, crocodile or lizard skin.

Box and Papers

Although there are no original papers with this watch, the reference numbers, markings, signatures and hallmarks are all correct, dating this watch to 1955.

Detailed particulars will be included with our purchase receipt for your interest and security. A separate insurance valuation for the replacement value of this watch will be provided at the time of sale along with our unique ‘Lifetime Authenticity Guarantee’ which states: “If this watch proves to be anything less than 100% genuine, authentic and original, a full refund will be given at any time”.

The high quality hardwood presentation box shown in the photographs is included.

Payment and Delivery

If you would like to pay by bank transfer, we will be pleased to assist you with this and pass on a 3% saving to you. Paying by bank transfer for a 3% saving will not affect your 12 months warranty. Similarly, if you wish to pay by International SWIFT or Bank Wire Transfer we will provide you with our BIC / Swift number and our IBAN number.

Please check the import duties and any taxes your government may apply, these are different for each country and, unfortunately, out of our control.

We understand there may be some ‘loopholes’ that may help you avoid these charges; however, attempting to use these could impact our ongoing ability to serve our growing international customer base.

For those who happen to visit London on occasion, we are, of course, more than happy to store your watch until we can meet you in our offices in Kensington, London, and hand your watch directly to you there.

As with all our watches, this watch will be sold under our 14 days no-quibble sale or return policy.