Patek Philippe Ref.3859 18ct 1976

Patek Philippe

Simply the finest watch money can buy.

Even today, Patek Philippe’s extraordinary care and commitment to perfection mean it takes almost a year to manufacture even its simplest watch movement.

Some significant moments in watchmaking since 1839 …

– 1839 Antoine Patek began producing about 200 high quality pocket watches per year
– 1845 Patek & Co. Partnership founded in Geneva with Jean Adrien Philippe, Technical Director
– 1846 Tiffany & Co. New York, Tiffany appoints Patek Philippe as its principal supplier of pocket watches
– 1857 Universal Exposition, London, Queen Victoria and Prince Albert buy a timepiece, shooting Patek to international fame
– 1867 the company produces the world’s first wristwatch
– 1927 the company produces the world’s first perpetual calendar wristwatch
– 1941 the company produces the world’s first perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch
– 1962 the company produces the world’s first automatic, perpetual calendar wristwatch

It is said that fewer than 1 million Patek Philippe watches have been made since its first watch was completed in 1839. This is fewer than some high-end Swiss manufacturers (notably Rolex) produce in one year. In fact, the company limits itself to producing less than 50,000 watches per year, even though it is estimated by watch market analysts, the company could sell ten times this figure. Patek production is so precise, detailed and intricate, it takes almost a year to complete its most basic watch and more than two years to produce many of the more complicated timepieces.

Patek’s vintage complications hold more world record prices at auction than any other brand. Landmark models include the Patek model ref. 1518 – the world’s first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph – and its successor, the Patek ref. 2499. Other famous models include perpetual calendars such as the refs. 1526, ref. 3448 and 3450.

We associate Patek Philippe with the very best, but also understated elegance, craftsmanship, heritage, exquisite design, perfection and precision, and of course, total confidence and commitment in everything it does.

Description

Here we have a rare, model reference 3859 square-cased Patek Philippe with an outstanding and rare textured, solid gold sigma dial. Relatively few square or rectangular shaped Patek Philippe watches were produced during the 1960s and ’70s so these case shapes are more exclusive. At 27mm in width, excluding the Patek Philippe signed crown, this is a good sized watch for this period.

The Dial

This watch is simply incredible. The original, unrestored and untouched textured sigma dial looks absolutely stunning against the 18ct yellow gold case. The original, unrestored and untouched dial is the rarer and more sought after version of this watch and it is not difficult to see why.

The dial is furnished with its original solid gold ‘dauphine’ hands and carries ‘baton’ hour indices at ‘3 – 6 – 9 – 12’. So simple, yet so pleasing. Well balanced, beautifully proportioned and simply executed to perfection. In harmony with its watch case, the dial suggests pure class, simple elegance, quality and confidence.

The dial is known as a ‘Sigma’ dial as indicated by the signature at the very bottom of the dial below 6. This shows two ‘σ’ marks either side of ‘Swiss’, meaning the dial, hands and indices are made in 18ct solid gold.

This dial is simply signed ‘Patek Philippe’ with ‘Geneve’ just below the 12 along with ‘σ Swiss σ’ at the very bottom of the dial.

This dial is original and unrestored and has been left untouched by our restoration team due to its superb condition. Usually, we restore the dials of the watches we sell, however, we decided, in this case, to leave it alone, due to its unusually good condition and to retain its originality and charm for those who prefer this. It also helps to contrast with almost all of the other watch dials you see on our website, which have been restored. The hands, likewise, have also been left in their original untouched condition.

Please note, studio lights, professional-grade digital cameras, and macro lenses can be very unkind to an unrestored vintage watch dial. Also, the dial here measures less than 1.25 inches across, so the image you’re seeing may be between 5 – 25 times larger than the watch itself. Therefore please keep in mind you are seeing many tiny flaws which cannot be seen, or will be very hard to see with the naked eye, even under close examination. Suffice to say, on the wrist, in natural light, this dial looks much better and carries a great deal more charm than the photographs portray.

Movement

The watch carries the Patek Philippe Calibre 177, 18 Jewel hand wound movement which as can be seen, is in sparkling condition. This movement has a 44 hour power reserve when fully wound.

This movement is in spectacular condition. The Geneva wave finishing on the bridge and plates and the bevelled edging throughout was all applied by hand almost 50 years ago, and looks as beautifully bright and fresh today as one could ever wish. This movement is in A1 condition indicating this watch has been properly cared for and regularly serviced.

The movement has been fully overhauled and serviced by a Master Watchmaker. This means dismantling the movement to each of its component parts, careful inspection under high magnification, replacement where necessary with only genuine parts, then careful reassembly and adjustment, before final calibration in 5 positions. The movement winds sets and runs accurately and reliably and at final testing and calibration, it was running within +7 seconds per day, averaged over 5 positions. This is truly outstanding for any watch of this age. We are therefore highly confident in offering our 12-month warranty* with this watch.

The movement is all correctly signed ‘Patek Philippe & Co’, ‘Geneve’ and ‘Swiss’, with the Calibre number 177 and the movement serial number 1367064, which dates this watch to 1976.

*Please note – our 12 months’ warranty is only applicable if the full list price is paid.

The Case

As mentioned above, square-cased Patek Philippe watches were rare during the 1960s and ’70s which makes these highly sought after today. Patek Philippe watches have always been conservatively sized and at 27mm across, excluding the Patek Philippe signed crown, this was a typical for the period. However, this is deceptive because as it measures 40mm across the diagonal including the lugs, this is actually quite a good-sized watch for this period.

This beautiful yellow gold case is matched perfectly with the incredible textured dial and the condition of the beautiful ribbed case is outstanding with no scratches, marks or other signs of wear visible to the naked eye, indicating the watch has seen only light and careful use. It is as sturdy and tight as the day it was made, with its two halves pressing together with a very firm click.

Inside the case is all correctly signed and as expected: ‘Patek Philippe’, ‘Geneve’ along with Swiss 18ct hallmarks and the case serial number 2798639 and the reference number 3859.

Please note, our standard advice applies: Vintage watches should be kept clean and dry at all times.

The Strap and Buckle

The watch is fitted with a high quality brown leather strap and a plain gold-plated buckle. However, if a different colour or style of strap is preferred, please let us know and we will do our best to oblige free of charge. We carry tan, conker, dark brown and black straps in stock in plain padded leather, crocodile skin or lizard skin. We can also obtain most types and colours from our partners at ‘Watch Obsession’ within 48hrs.

Box and Papers

Although there are no original papers with this watch, the reference numbers, marking are all correct, dating this watch to 1976.

Detailed particulars will be included with our purchase receipt for your interest and security. A separate insurance valuation for the replacement value of this watch will be provided at the time of sale along with our unique ‘Lifetime Authenticity Guarantee’ which states: “If this watch proves to be anything less than 100% genuine, authentic and original, a full refund will be given at any time”.

This watch comes complete with a hardwood presentation box.

Payment and Delivery

If you would like to pay by bank transfer, we will be pleased to assist you with this. Similarly, if you wish to pay by International SWIFT or Bank Wire Transfer we will provide you with our BIC / Swift number and our IBAN number.

Please check the import duties and any taxes your government may apply, these are different for each country and, unfortunately, out of our control.

We understand there may be some ‘loopholes’ that may help you avoid these charges; however, attempting to use these could impact our ongoing ability to serve our growing international customer base.

For those who happen to visit London on occasion, we are, of course, more than happy to store your watch until we can meet you in our offices in Kensington, London, and hand your watch directly to you there.

As with all our watches, this watch will be sold under our 14 days no-quibble sale or return policy.