Vacheron & Constantin Cal.P454/5B 18ct Gold 1962 Oversize 38mm

Vacheron Constantin

One of the widely recognised ‘Holy Trinity’ of Swiss watchmaking along with Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin is also the world’s oldest ‘Watch Manufacturer’, and as such, it has remained in continuous operation since 1755. More than this, Vacheron Constantin is the founding father of a spirit of technical excellence which it has made an art form. This is known as ‘Haute Horlogerie’ at which Vacheron Constantin has been in the vanguard for over 260 years. This tradition defines the ‘Manufacture’, evident in the finest quality execution, reflected in a finish which goes far beyond the demands of the ‘Poinçon de Genève’.

Created in 1886, the ‘Seal of the State of Geneva’ is the highest accolade, reserved for only the very finest quality watchmaking. Vacheron Constantin was the first watchmaker to be allowed to use this hallmark of excellence on its movements.

Vacheron Constantin was the first watch company to manufacture movements with interchangeable parts, beginning in 1839. The manufacturer is known for their highly complicated masterpieces, including the King Farouk Grand Complication made in 1935, the Tour de l’Ile that was the most complicated serially produced wristwatch when introduced in 2005 and the 57260 — the world’s most complicated watch — made in 2015.

For the well-heeled and the collector, vintage Vacheron & Constantin offer a degree of exclusivity which even Patek Philippe cannot. During the 1940s and through the 1960s, Vacheron Constantin only ever produced a maximum of 24 examples of each reference in any one configuration. This means that while it produced a variety of dial and case combinations and colours and designs, each one was strictly limited in number. For the collector, the fact that these watches exist and are seriously undervalued doesn’t go unnoticed.

Description

This is quite a statement piece. Here we have a Vacheron & Constantin dress watch at 38mm diameter, plus the Vacheron signed crown (at 40mm total). These are extremely oversized dimensions for the early 1960s. The watch dial, while conservative, has upon closer examination a wonderfully attractive Guilloche effect, which elevates this watch to something truly special. Added to this, we have one of the very highest quality hand-wound movements ever produced.

This beautiful classic timepeice impresses with an extraordinary design language and a clear, symmetrical Guilloche dial, simply showing the hour, minute and central second.

The Dial

In addition to its very fine movements, Vacheron Constantin is widely renowned for its Guilloche dials. These add depth and decoration to a dial in the form of repetitive relief. This is a highly involved technical process, achieved through a repetitive pattern in which the design is created using special machinery and geometric lathes. The subtle decoration on this dial takes the form of a vertical pattern in the centre main part of the dial, enclosed by a scalloped edge circle, repeating towards the edge of the dial. On close examination, as we have tried to show in the photographs, this is quite subtle but highly attractive against the ivory cream background. This looks much better face to face, rather than in the photographs.

Further to this, the classic Vacheron Constantin dial design here is totally ageless, totally understated and executed to perfection with applied single solid gold Pencil hour indices and double solid gold Pencil indices at 12. The ivory cream dial provides the perfect contrast between the case, original gold Index hands, and the dial furnishings. The symmetry and pure class here is matchless and for someone with an eye for classical watch design, totally irresistible. The dial is simply signed ‘Vacheron Constantin’ and ‘Geneve’ with ‘Swiss’ at the very bottom of the dial.

Note: This is the original dial which has been restored to the very highest standards by our dial restorers, considered to be the best in the UK. The lens is new, having been replaced with an original new replacement, as part of the restoration.

The Movement

The hand-wound Calibre P454/5B, 17 jewel rhodium-plated movement is utterly beautiful. Put very simply… it is a work of art with Fausses Côtes, Geneva Wave embellishment and is stamped with the Seal of Geneva quality mark**. The movement includes a lever escapement, monometallic balance with screws adjusted to temperature, self-compensating Breguet hairspring, Superchoc shock-absorber and swan-neck micrometer regulator.

The movement is in superb condition having just completed a full overhaul and service by our vintage Vacheron Constantin specialist watchmaker. It is running perfectly and has been calibrated in 5 positions to run within +4 seconds per day! This is truly outstanding for any mechanical watch. This is no exaggeration – we have checked and confirmed the test results on our electronic watch timegrapher. This movement also has an excellent power reserve of 44 hours when fully wound.

The movement is signed ‘Vacheron & Constantin’, ‘Geneve Swiss’ and ’17 Jewels’ with the Calibre number P454/5B, the movement serial number 492560 and Swiss Geneva hallmarks. The movement serial number dates this watch to 1962.

**This movement carries the highly revered, regarded ‘Geneva Seal’. This is a distinctive hallmark depicting the Geneva coat of arms, granted by an official body at the Ecole d’Horlogerie de Genève and was only ever placed on movements that were able to achieve the most exacting standards and whose quality and finish conform to most precise and demanding specifications.

With care and regular servicing, say every 3 to 4 years, we would fully expect this watch to continue to run very happily for another 50+ years! We are therefore totally confident in offering this watch with our 12 months’ written warranty*.

*Please note – our 12 months’ warranty is only applicable if the list price is paid.

The Watch Case

The size of this watch as highlighted above, is extraordinary, at 38mm in diameter excluding the signed Vacheron Constantin winding crown. This is, in fact, the largest ‘time only’ vintage gold watch we have ever seen, yet including the beautifully rounded case-back and fitted lens, it measures just 9mm in depth.

From its very early beginnings, Vacheron Constantin has been the torchbearer of Haute Horlogerie. This is reflected not only in the quality of its movements, but also in its watch cases. The 18ct yellow gold case is of two-piece construction which improves dust and moisture protection. The case has a wide integral bezel which accentuates the size of the watch and features short swept-back lugs. The beautifully rounded press-fit case-back clicks into place with a solid pop just as it should. The case-back is of full thickness and has never been inscribed.

The case, the case-back and bezel are all in superb condition with no marks or scratches visible to the naked eye. The watch has been beautifully well cared for and so after a close inspection, has simply required a careful clean and a gentle polish to bring it back to its current, almost as new condition.

Inside the case-back is signed Vacheron & Constantin and externally the case carries an 18ct hallmark.

As ever, our standard advice applies: Vintage watches should be kept clean and dry at all times.

The Strap & Buckle

An original, lightly used black Vacheron Constantin Alligator strap is fitted, along with a genuine matching Vacheron Constantin solid 18ct yellow gold buckle.

Box and Papers

Although there are no original papers with this watch, the reference numbers, markings, signatures and hallmarks are all correct, dating this watch to 1962. A detailed particulars document will be included with this watch, along with our fully detailed purchase receipt and 12 months’ warranty*.  A separate insurance valuation for the replacement value of this watch will also be provided along with our unique ‘Lifetime Authenticity Guarantee’ which states: “If this watch proves to be anything less than totally authentic, or not as described, Vintage Gold Watches of London will offer you a full refund at any time”.

As with all our watches, this watch will be sold under our 14 days no quibble sale or return policy.

The watch comes complete with the beautiful walnut presentation case and outer box as shown in the photographs.

In Conclusion

An exceptional and collectable gentleman’s dress watch from one of horology’s most revered names. This will not only make an excellent dress watch but also a practical, accurate and reliable timepiece to use on a daily basis should you so wish. It will provide an excellent investment as well as be something to use, wear, treasure and enjoy!

A word on our prices – We always try our hardest to acquire the very highest quality watches we can find, before then restoring these to the highest possible standards. We then offer these at the fairest prices we can, taking into account our pre and post-sales care and service. This approach means we will never be the cheapest, but nor will we be the most expensive. Indeed there are some well known stores in West London which are highly successful charging between two to three times the price you see here. We therefore consider our prices to be fair, given the quality of watches we have to offer.

We are happy to accept PayPal as this is the quickest method of payment. However, if you would like to pay by UK cheque or by UK bank transfer we will be pleased to assist you with this and pass on a 3% saving to you. Similarly, if you wish to pay by International SWIFT or Bank Wire Transfer we will provide you with our BIC / Swift number and our IBAN number.

If you have any questions, please call 020 7727 7095 or +44 207 727 7095.

Please note, we welcome part exchanges. If you have a watch or small collection for sale, please contact us as we will be happy to discuss.

We will also be happy to Service your watch, Repair your watch or Restore your watch, all at ‘sensible’ prices. Please see here.

Please take a look at our other fine vintage gold watches.