Rolex Day-Date Ref.1803 18ct 1970 Sigma Linen Dial

Rolex

Founded in 1905 in England by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis as Wilsdorf & Davis, the partnership became known as the Rolex Watch Company in 1915, moving to its new Geneva headquarters in 1919. The success of the wristwatch can be largely attributed to many of Rolex’s innovations which made the company one of the most respected and well-known of all luxury brands. These have included its famous “Oyster” case — the world’s first water-resistant and dustproof watch case, invented in 1926 — and its “Perpetual” — the world’s first reliable, self-winding movement for the wristwatch, launched in 1933. These would form the foundation for Rolex’s Datejust and Day-Date, respectively introduced in 1945 and 1956. Also and equally importantly, Rolex is known for its sports watches, such as the Explorer, Submariner and GMT-Master launched in the mid-1950s.

During the 1930s and ’40s, Rolex also became quite masterful at courting tremendous publicity and excitement through literally being ‘on hand’ during numerous record-breaking events. These were, for example, swimming the English Channel (1927), breaking the world automobile speed record (300mph, 1935), breaking the sound barrier (1947) and climbing Everest for the first time in 1953. No matter how well orchestrated these events came to be, we have to admire Rolex for becoming masters of self-promotion and capitalising on every opportunity with simultaneous worldwide marketing campaigns.

Of course, a Rolex watch has become so ubiquitous, it is now almost its own kind of currency. A Rolex is the watch you want on your wrist when you’re in a Third World country, a revolution breaks out and there’s only one seat on the plane, and there’s a guy standing in the way with a machine gun! You give him the Rolex, and he’ll give you the seat!

Description

The Rolex Day-Date has been Rolex’s range-topping, gentleman’s dress watch for over 60 years! First released in 1956, it soon became one of the most desirable “luxury” watches to own at the time.

The Rolex ‘Day-Date’ is also referred to as the President, or President’s watch, after a gift of the 150,000th Officially Certified Rolex Chronometer was accepted by General Dwight D. Eisenhower, and of course in 1952 Eisenhower won the presidential race, becoming the 34th president of the United States. A famous image shows Eisenhower wearing his Rolex while waving on his way to his inauguration in 1953. This was a master-stroke of marketing by Rolex which would later claim in successive advertising campaigns that the Rolex Day-Date was ‘the watch worn by Presidents everywhere’. Which later, in fact, became true.

Incidentally, Winston Churchill also wore a Rolex after he accepted his gift of the 100,000th Officially Certified Rolex Chronometer a few years earlier in 1947.

When the Day-Date was unveiled by Rolex in 1956, it immediately broke two records. It was the first watch to display the date, as well as the day in its entirety, and of course, it was therefore the first waterproof watch to display the date, as well as the day, in its entirety.

The example here is the Rolex model reference 1803, with the Cal.1556, 26 Jewel movement. The extremely rare and sought after gold linen stepped dial is completely original and untouched and contrasts wonderfully with the 18ct yellow gold hands, matching 18ct yellow gold hour indices and 18ct yellow gold case. Earlier vintage Rolex Day-Date watches in this quality and condition are now becoming much harder to find and quite collectable.

This example is in outstanding condition having seen only very light and careful use. It has very few signs of age even though it is now over 50 years old.

The Dial

This watch features the rare Sigma dial, meaning it is made of solid gold. It also carries solid gold batons and hands. This is also a rare stepped linen dial making this one of the most rare and sought after Rolex Day-Date dial designs of all. This dial is totally original, unrestored and untouched, featuring original 18ct yellow gold ‘stick’ hands matched with original 18ct yellow gold  ‘baton’ hour indices. The lens features the iconic cyclops date window at 3. The window at 12 shows the days of the week, which here are in English.

This wonderful dial also features a stepped outer edge with downward bevel in a slightly lighter in colour.

The dial is known as a Rolex ‘Sigma’ dial as indicated by the signature at the very bottom of the dial below 6. This shows two ‘σ’ marks either side of ‘T Swiss T’, meaning the dial, hands and baton hour indices are made in 18ct solid gold.

The dial also carries the Rolex Coronet at 12 just below the days of the week and is signed ‘Rolex Oyster Perpetual’, ‘Day-Date’ with ‘Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified’ below and ‘σ T Swiss T σ’ at the very bottom of the dial.

As this dial is in superb original unrestored condition, it has been left untouched by our restoration team due to its excellent condition. Usually, we restore the dials of the watches we sell, however we decided in this case to leave it alone, due to its first class condition and to retain the originality and charm of the watch. It also helps to contrast with most of the other watch dials you see on our website, which have been restored. The hands, likewise, have also been left in their original untouched condition.

Please note, studio lights, professional-grade digital cameras, and macro lenses can be very unkind to an unrestored vintage watch dial. Also the dial here measures less than 1.25 inches across, so the image you’re seeing may be between 5 – 25 times larger than the watch itself. Therefore please keep in mind you are seeing many tiny flaws which cannot be seen, or will be very hard to see with the naked eye, even under close examination. Suffice to say, on the wrist, in natural light, this dial looks much better and carries a great deal more charm than the photographs portray.

The Watch Movement

The original, high grade “Officially Certified Superlative Chronometer”, 26 Jewel, Calibre 1556 Day-Date movement is highly regarded for being very accurate, reliable and robust. As can be seen in the photographs, it is in sparkling condition and it is working perfectly following a thorough overhaul and service by our vintage Rolex specialist watchmaker. This means the movement has been completely disassembled to each of its component parts, cleaned and inspected under high magnification and then rebuilt using only original Rolex parts where required, before testing and careful calibration. The watch has just been re-tested (as it will be prior to delivery) and is running to within -9 seconds per day, which is outstanding for a vintage watch of this age! The movement also has a 48 hour power reserve when fully wound.

These movements are strong, accurate and very reliable making this watch perfect for regular everyday use, as well as evening wear. This movement is in top condition and with regular servicing every 3 – 4 years we would fully expect this watch to run very happily for many more decades to come! We are therefore pleased to offer a 12-month warranty on this watch movement*, along with servicing in the future.

The movement is signed ‘MONTRES ROLEX SA GENEVA’ and ‘TWENTY SIX JEWELS’, ‘ADJUSTED to FIVE POSITIONS’, and carries the movement reference number DD273322 and the calibre number 1556.

*Please note – our 12 months’ warranty is only applicable if the full list price is paid.

The Watch Case

The 18ct yellow gold case measures a large 36mm, excluding the Rolex Oyster screw-down crown. The case has been cleaned, inspected and very gently hand polished to bring it back to the condition you see here. Even though this is over 50 years old, no definition has been lost at all and all lines and edges, including the early fluted bezel, remain well defined. The case, lugs and case-back are in superb condition with no scratches, dings or similar marks visible to the naked eye.

This watch is also complete with its early fluted bezel, which is much easier on the eye and has much subtler lines than the later, more heavily fluted bezels. This gives the watch a more refined appearance and defines this watch as a vintage Rolex Day-Date. As can be seen, the bezel is free from any marks, which is unusual as the bezel is the most prone part of the watch case to damage and scratches.

The screw-down case-back is of full-thickness and has never been inscribed. The inside of the case-back carries the Rolex model number 1803 with 18ct Swiss Geneva hallmarks and is signed: ‘Montres Rolex SA Geneva Switzerland’. The Rolex model reference number 1803 is also shown again, between the lugs at ’12’.

Please note, although the waterproof seals have been replaced and this watch was originally specified as waterproof when new, this has not been tested and it is not guaranteed. As always, our standard advice applies: vintage watches should be kept clean and dry at all times.

The Strap & Buckle

This watch is fitted with a high quality black leather strap has been fitted along with a gold-plated Rolex buckle. However, if a different colour or style of strap is preferred, please let us know and we will do our best to oblige free of charge. We carry tan, conker, dark brown and black in stock in plain padded leather, crocodile skin or lizard skin. We can also obtain most types and colours from our partners at ‘Watch Obsession’ within 48hrs. Please take a look at their huge range of straps.

The Box and Papers

Although there are no original papers with the watch, the numbers and markings are all correct, dating this watch to 1970.

Detailed particulars will be included with our purchase receipt for your interest and security. A separate insurance valuation for the replacement value of this watch will be provided at the time of sale along with our unique ‘Lifetime Authenticity Guarantee’ which states: “If this watch proves to be anything less than 100% genuine, authentic and original, a full refund will be given at any time”.

The watch comes complete with a Rolex Oyster presentation box, as shown in the photographs.

If you would like to pay by bank transfer we will be pleased to assist you with this and pass on a 3% saving to you. Paying by bank transfer for a 3% saving will not affect your 12 months warranty. Similarly, if you wish to pay by International SWIFT or Bank Wire Transfer we will provide you with our BIC / Swift number and our IBAN number.

Please check the import duties and any taxes your government may apply, these are different for each country and unfortunately out of our control.

We understand there may be some ‘loopholes’ that may help you avoid these charges, however attempting to use these could impact our ongoing ability to serve our growing international customer base.

For those that happen to visit the UK on occasion we are of course more than happy to store your watch until we can meet you in our offices in Kensington, London, and your watch directly to you there.

As with all our watches, this watch will be sold under our 14 days no quibble sale or return policy.

In Conclusion

To summarise, this is a rare, top quality, and highly practical vintage watch from horology’s most famous name. It will provide an excellent financial investment as well as be something to wear, treasure and enjoy and will also make the perfect evening wear dress watch as well as a practical, highly accurate and reliable timepiece to use on an everyday basis. Although this is one of our more expensive watches, its quality will be remembered for long after its purchase price will be forgotten.

A word on our prices – We always try our hardest to acquire the very highest quality watches we can find, before restoring them to the highest possible standards. We then offer these at the fairest prices we can, taking into account our pre and post-sales care and service. This approach means we will never be the cheapest, but nor will we be the most expensive. Indeed there are some well-known stores in West London which are highly successful charging between two to three times the price you see here. We, therefore, consider our prices to be fair, given the quality of watches we have to offer.

Please note, we also welcome part exchanges. If you have a watch or a small collection for sale, please contact us as we will be happy to discuss this.

We will also be happy to Service your watch, Repair your watch or Restore your watch, all at ‘sensible’ prices. Please see here.

If you have any questions please call us on 020 7727 7095 or if calling from overseas on +44 207 727 7095.

Please take a look at our other fine vintage gold watches.

Thank you.