Longines Cal.990 Automatic 18ct 1979


100% Genuine & All Original

Fully Inspected, Serviced & Guaranteed

A Very Cared For and Lightly Used Example

Previously Restored Gold Dial with Original Onyx Inlaid ‘Index’ Hands

Very High Grade Cal.990, 25 Jewel Automatic Movement in Sparkling Condition

33mm Diameter Case, Excluding the Longines Signed Crown

New, High Quality Black Leather Strap & Longines Gold-Plated Buckle

All in Absolutely Top Grade & Simply Stunning Condition

High Quality Hardwood Presentation Box Included

VGWL 12 Months Written Warranty Included*

VGWL Lifetime Authenticity Guarantee

Free Worldwide FedEx Delivery

Free UK Special Delivery

Sold 27th Jan '23
VGW Reference: L1151
Price £2,550 Sold


Out of stock

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Longines is one of the oldest Swiss watch manufacturers with an unparalleled history of invention, innovation, patents and awards. They are also responsible for some of the most beautiful watches ever made. For a long time, something of a Cinderella among the watch collecting fraternity, Longines is now rightfully returning to the elevated status they once held in the pre and post-war years. It is only relatively recently that Longines vintage watches have returned to the admiration and popularity they deserve, with values rising on average by 15% per year. On certain models, such as the now legendary Longines Calibre.13ZN chronograph, prices have simply sky-rocketed!


Here we have a wonderful example of Longines style and elegance from 1979, when technically Longines was competing head to head with, and beating almost all of the other Swiss watch manufacturers. This is a superb example of a 1979 vintage Longines 18ct gentleman’s dress watch. Notable features of this watch include its unusual, rare, gold dial with wonderful applied, onyx inlaid ‘baton’ hour indices which are eye-catching, bold and in tip-top condition. The addition of a date window adds extra elegance and flair.

The Dial

Longines excel in every aspect of watch design. The company has always been rightfully held in very high regard for the quality of their movements and close examination of any of their watch cases reveals an equally high attention for case design, quality, purpose and perfection.

We happen to think almost all of Longines classic vintage dial designs are a step ahead, or at least a step apart from the rest, in terms of elegance and sophistication and the design here is a great example. The dial is wonderful in gold, which picks up the available light beautifully and the interesting applied, solid, onyx inlaid ‘baton’ hour indices sit proud of the dial.  The  gold ‘index’ hands complete this dial beautifully. This watch carries the applied Longines branding just below ’12’ with ‘Automatic’ at ‘6’ which all add to this highly sophisticated and interesting dial. This wonderful example of Longines work also comes with a date window which we believe makes this watch something extra special.

This is the original dial which has been previously restored to a very high standard and as can be seen, is in wonderful condition.

The Movement

The watch contains its original Cal.990, 25 Jewel automatic movement. When introduced in 1977, the 990 with all features was the thinnest automatic movement with date and sweep second. Even in 2003 it is only underscored by movements without date and/or sweep second.

The movement has been fully overhauled by a Master Watchmaker. This means it has been disassembled to each of its component parts, followed by careful inspection under high magnification, replacement where necessary with only genuine Longines parts, then careful reassembly and adjustment before final calibration in 5 positions. This watch therefore winds, sets and runs accurately and reliably. Our test results show +2 seconds a day, averaged over 5 positions and a 40 hour power reserve when fully wound. Please bear in mind this is totally outstanding for any watch of this age. We are therefore highly confident in offering 12 months warranty on this watch movement*.

The movement is all signed correctly ‘Longines’ with both the Calibre number 990 and the serial number 54618110 which dates this watch to 1979.

*Please note – our 12 months’ warranty is only applicable if the full list price is paid.

The Watch Case

The 18ct yellow gold watch case feels very heavy and robust. It is of a two-piece design with a screw-back, meaning this was specified as a waterproof design. It measures a large 33mm in diameter, excluding the correct Longines signed crown. The case has been cleaned, carefully inspected and lightly hand-polished to bring it to the immaculate condition you see here.

The case-back is of full thickness and has never been inscribed. It is completely blemish-free from every viewpoint with no scratches dings or other marks visible to the naked eye. Also, the watch case is crisp with clearly defined lugs. This indicates this watch has been very carefully looked after and only lightly used.

Inside the case-back is correctly signed ‘Longines’ and ‘Swiss Made’, with the Longines winged hourglass brand. The case also carries Swiss Geneva hallmarks, the model reference number 4878 and the Calibre number 990.

Please note – although this watch was specified as waterproof when new, this has not been tested and it is not guaranteed. As ever, our standard advice applies: vintage watches should be kept clean and dry at all times.

The Strap and Buckle

This watch has been fitted with a new high quality black leather strap with a matching Longines gold-plated buckle. We feel this suits the watch very nicely, however, if a different colour or style of strap is preferred, simply let us know and we will do our best to oblige, free of charge. We carry tan, conker, dark brown and black in stock and in plain padded leather, or crocodile skin or lizard skin, but can also obtain most types and colours from our partners at ‘Watch Obsession’ within 48hrs. Please take a look at their huge range straps if you wish here.

The Box and Papers

Although there are no original papers with this watch, the numbers and markings on the watch are all correct, dating the watch to 1979.

Detailed particulars will be included with our purchase receipt for your interest and security. A separate insurance valuation for the replacement value of this watch will be provided at the time of sale along with our unique ‘Lifetime Authenticity Guarantee’ which states: “If this watch proves to be anything less than 100% genuine, authentic and original, a full refund will be given at any time”.

The high quality hardwood presentation box shown in the photographs is included in the sale of this watch.

In Conclusion

Here we have an important, top of the line vintage watch from one of the most collectable and highly regarded vintage watch brands of its day which will make an excellent financial investment as well as be something to treasure and enjoy! It is completely practical for use as an everyday watch and as long as it is well cared for and serviced every 2-3 years, it will last another lifetime. It carries a great deal more style, individuality and panache than a new watch and to buy the same quality today would cost at least three or four times the price here.

However, you may wish to view this, as each year goes by and the world market for fine vintage gold watches grows even larger, the limited supply and high demand means prices will inevitably climb even higher!

A word on our prices – We always try our hardest to acquire the very highest quality watches we can find, before then restoring them to the highest possible standards. We then offer these at the fairest prices we can, taking into account our pre and post sales care and service. This approach means we will never be the cheapest, but nor will we be the most expensive. Indeed there are some well-known stores in West London which are highly successful charging between two to three times the price you see here. We therefore consider our prices to be good value and very fair, given the quality of watches we have to offer.

We are happy to accept payment via PayPal as this is the quickest method of payment. However, if you would like to pay by UK cheque or by bank transfer, we will be pleased to assist you with this and pass on a 3% saving to you. Similarly, if you wish to pay by International SWIFT or Bank Wire Transfer we will provide you with our BIC / Swift number and our IBAN number.

Please check the import duties and any taxes your government may apply, these are different for each country and unfortunately out of our control.

We understand there may be some ‘loopholes’ that may help you avoid these charges, however attempting to use these could impact our ongoing ability to serve our growing international customer base.

For those that happen to visit the UK on occasion we are of course more than happy to store your watch until we can meet you in our offices in Kensington, London, and your watch directly to you there.

If you have any questions please call on Landline 0207 727 7095 or Mobile 07515 949250 or if calling from overseas on Landline +44 207 727 7095 or Mobile +44 7515 949250.

Please note, we also welcome part exchanges.

Please take a look at our other vintage gold watches.

Thank you.