Jaeger-LeCoultre Cal.P480/C 18ct 1958

Jaeger-LeCoultre

Since its founding in 1833, Jaeger-LeCoultre has had a highly inventive history, developing over 1,249 mechanical calibres, registering over 400 Patents and playing a tremendous role in the development of the industry as a whole. Whether it is the world’s first keyless watch, its Calibre 101, the Futurematic, the Memovox or the iconic Reverso, it would be difficult to imagine a historical account of watchmaking without the mention of Jaeger-LeCoultre.

It is not commonly known that Jaeger-LeCoultre, in addition to producing movements for its own watches, has also produced movements for a number of famous watch houses such as Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, and IWC. Indeed for most of the 20th Century, Jaeger-LeCoultre even supplied bare movements to the great firm of Patek Philippe. The company has always been a true ‘Manufacturer’ of the finest quality watch movements. Indeed Jaeger-LeCoultre has always manufactured all its own movements. This is unusual because very often, high-end brands such as Rolex, Patek Phillippe, Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin would buy in movements for particular needs. For example, in 1967 when Patek Phillippe, Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin needed an ultra-thin automatic movement, it was to Jaeger-LeCoultre they turned, to produce one for them. Furthermore, the exquisite Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 920, is still in production and in use today by both Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet.

Description

Here we have a wonderful example of a gentleman’s classic 1950s, 18ct gold dress watch from Jaeger-LeCoultre with a good size 34mm case and original tropical sunbleached golden yellow dial.  This watch has a very highly regarded Cal.P480C movement which is in sparkling condition. It is also very accurate and reliable, making the perfect watch for special occasions or with care, everyday use. As with all of our watches, this watch is in fully restored condition and will be sold with our 12 months warranty and Lifetime Authenticity Guarantee.

The Dial

The dial has a clean simplicity and elegance, enhanced by the omission of a seconds hand. This is also a mark of both Patek Philippe and Vacheron & Constantin dress watches.

The dial is very simply furnished with applied yellow gold ‘baton’ hour indices at 3, 6, 9, & 12, interspersed with black line markers. These are matched by the original yellow gilt ‘index’ hands.

It is rare to find an unrestored dial in such extraordinarily good original condition. The dial has become a wonderful lightly bleached golden yellow without any high degree of fading. This is often referred to as tropical effect as it must have been exposed to regular strong sunlight to cause this effect. The dial is otherwise unaffected by ageing with no pitting staining or scratches making this the kind of dial which is often highly sought after among collectors.

Generally, as can be seen among our other watches on this website, we restore the dials of all our watches however we felt this was simply too special to be touched in any way.

The overall look, as with all vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre, is one of original classic simplicity and elegance. The dial is simply signed ‘Jaeger-LeCoultre’ with ‘Swiss Made’ at the very bottom. The lens is new, having been replaced with the correct original part, as part of the restoration.

The Movement

The watch is complete with its original ultra-high quality, 17 Jewelled, Calibre P480/C hand-wound movement. This is very highly regarded as one of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s finest calibres and was a cornerstone in its hand-wound movement development. These movements are particularly well regarded for their reliability and accuracy, making this watch quite suitable for everyday use.

The movement has been fully overhauled and serviced by our watchmaker. This involves completely dismantling the movement to each of its component parts, ultrasonic cleaning, microscope inspection and replacement of parts as required, only with new JLC originals, then careful assembly and oiling ready for final testing and careful calibration.

The movement is signed ‘Jaeger-LeCoultre’ and ‘Fab Suisse’ with the calibre number P480/C and with the movement serial number 1349267 making the year of manufacture 1958.

The watch is now running perfectly having been calibrated and timed at +4 seconds per day which is outstanding for any watch of this age. The watch has a runtime of 40 hours from its fully wound state which shows the movement is particularly strong and running and well within expected parameters. It is now ready for many more decades of faithful service and we are therefore more than happy to offer this watch with our 12 months’ warranty and assist with servicing again in around three years time.

*Please note – our 12 months’ warranty is only applicable if the list price is paid.

The Watch Case

The 18ct watch case is the much rarer oversize 34mm diameter, excluding the crown. This is considered a good-sized case as typical Jaeger-LeCoultre watch cases sizes were 33mm at the time this watch was made.

The case is of a superbly made two-piece design for increased dust and moisture protection. It has a thin bezel and straight swept back lugs which add elegance and simplicity to the watch.

The case is in excellent condition, having received a very gentle and sympathetic clean and polish. The watch has obviously been very well cared for as there are no dings, scratches or marks visible to the naked eye.

Inside the case-back, all is properly marked and as expected, with the Jaeger LeCoultre Fir Tree and Swiss 18ct hallmarks. Also on the outside of the case with the serial number 753742. This external case serial number is clear, indicating the watch case has not been over-polished. Also, importantly, the case-back is of full thickness and has never been engraved.

The Strap & Buckle

A new, high quality black Alligator strap has been fitted, along with a Jaeger-LeCoultre gold-plated buckle which we feel suits the watch very well. However, if a different colour or style of strap is preferred, please let us know and we will do our best to oblige free of charge. We carry tan, conker, dark brown and black in stock in plain padded leather, crocodile skin or lizard skin, but can also obtain most types and colours from our partners at ‘Watch Obsession’ within 48hrs. Please take a look at their huge range of 16mm straps if you wish here.

Box and Papers

Although there are no original papers with this watch, the reference numbers, markings, signatures and hallmarks are all correct, dating this watch to 1958.

Detailed particulars will be included with our purchase receipt and 12 months warranty*. A separate insurance valuation for the replacement value of this watch will also be provided at the time of sale along with our unique ‘Lifetime Authenticity Guarantee’ which states: “If this watch proves to be anything less than totally authentic, or not as described, Vintage Gold Watches of London will offer you a full refund at any time”. As with all our watches, this watch will be sold under our 14 days no quibble sale or return policy.

The hardwood presentation box shown in the photographs is included in the sale.

In Conclusion

This is exactly the kind of watch we love to find, restore and offer to you for sale. It is many more times more stylish than the modern equivalent watch and even though it is now over 60 years old, it is still completely fresh, reliable and practical to wear as your everyday watch, should you wish. But mostly, it is a thing of beauty, some would say, a piece of art from one of the most prestigious names in Swiss watchmaking.

Should you wish to view it this way, it is also an excellent investment and heirloom piece and as each year goes by and the world market for vintage gold watches grows ever greater, limited supply and high demand from the Far East, means prices will climb ever higher!

This is a beautiful example of a classic vintage watch from one of horology’s most famous names and if treated with care, will remain an excellent investment as well as something to use, wear, treasure and enjoy. It will provide excellent reliability as well as a sound financial investment, as long-lasting as the watch itself.

Please note – vintage watches should be kept clean and dry at all times.

A word on our prices – We always try our hardest to acquire the very highest quality watches we can find, before restoring them to the highest possible standards. We then offer these at the fairest prices we can, taking into account our pre and post-sales customer care and service. This approach means we will never be the cheapest, but nor will we be the most expensive. Indeed there are some well-known stores in West London which are highly successful charging between two to three times the price you see here. We therefore consider our prices to be fair, given the quality of watches we have to offer.

We are happy to accept PayPal as this is the quickest method of payment. However, if you would like to pay by UK cheque or by UK bank transfer we will be pleased to assist you with this and pass on a 3% saving to you. Similarly, if you wish to pay by International SWIFT or Bank Wire Transfer we will provide you with our BIC / Swift number and our IBAN number.

If you have any questions please call 0207 727 7095 or if calling from overseas, +44 207 727 7095.

Please note, we welcome part exchanges. If you have a watch or small collection for sale, please contact us as we will be happy to discuss.

We will also be happy to Service your watch, Repair your watch or Restore your watch, all at ‘sensible’ prices. Please see here.

Please take a look at our other fine vintage gold watches.

Thank you.