Jaeger-LeCoultre Chronograph 18ct Pink Gold 1945

Jaeger-LeCoultre

Since the founding of Jaeger-LeCoultre in 1833, the company has had a very inventive history, developing over 1,249 mechanical calibres, registering 400+ patents and playing a tremendous role in the development of the industry as a whole. Whether it is the keyless pocket watch, calibre 101, or the iconic Reverso, it would be difficult to imagine a historical account of watchmaking without the mention of Jaeger-LeCoultre. The company has always been a true ‘Manufacturer’ of the finest quality watch movements. This is unusual because more often than not, high-end brands such as Rolex, Patek Phillippe, Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin have bought in their movements for particular needs. For example, in 1967 when Patek Phillippe, Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin needed an ultra-thin automatic movement, it was to Jaeger-LeCoultre they turned, to produce it for them. Furthermore, the exquisite Jaeger-LeCoultre Cal.920, is still in production and in use by both Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet today.

Description

We have here a wonderful looking gentleman’s dress-chronograph produced around 1945. This was after Jaeger and LeCoultre had entered into a formal partnership, but while nearly all Jaeger-LeCoultre’s chronographs were still marketed with the Jaeger name signed dial and on the movement. This no doubt made good sense from a marketing standpoint, since the Jaeger name was not only a strong watch brand, but also strongly associated with dashboard instruments for measuring the speed of cars and aircraft.

However this beautiful watch was not principally designed for the professional use in the timing of events, or for pilots, but rather as an expensive, sophisticated watch for a gentleman to wear to exhibit his good taste and affluence. The watch is exceptional, with the size being just an oversized 37mm, but also the fact that it is completely original, unrestored and untouched yet in outstanding condition.

The Dial

Some chronograph dials are overly busy and can be difficult to read, but this has to be one of the most elegant and beautiful we have seen on any chronograph. It is a model of simplicity, beautifully symmetrical and well proportioned. The dial itself in White contrasts wonderfully with the pink gold case and original pink gilt ‘dauphine’ hands and hour indices, all neatly signed with the 1940s period Jaeger signature. In essence, this is a highly sophisticated and highly elegant dial. All in fact which Jaeger-LeCoultre represents.

On reflection, this dial and the look of the watch as a whole reminds us of one or two chronographs produced by the great firm of Patek Philippe from around a decade after this watch, in the style which Patek has carried through until today.

This is of course, the more sought after triple register chronograph. These registers measure constant seconds at the 9 dial position, minute recording at the 3 position and hour recording at the 6 position. The constant seconds dial runs constantly and independently of the chronograph function while the large centre hand and the other two registers operate while the chronograph is operating.

This dial also carries a blue outer tachymeter scale which can be used to compute a speed, based on travel time, or measure distance based on speed. The black seconds scale is divided into fifths of a second which gives the dial a slightly more technical look, but by no means excessively so.

As this dial is in original, unrestored condition, this has been left untouched by our restoration team due to its superb condition. Usually, we restore the dials of the watches we sell, however we decided in this case to leave it alone, due to its unusually good condition and to retain its originality and charm for those who prefer this. It also helps to contrast with almost all of the other watch dials you see on our website, which have been restored. The hands, likewise, have also been left in their original untouched condition.

Please note, studio lights, professional-grade digital cameras, and macro lenses can be very unkind to an unrestored vintage watch dial. Also the dial here measures less than 1.25 inches across, so the image you’re seeing may be between 5 – 25 times larger than the watch itself. Therefore please keep in mind you are seeing many tiny flaws which cannot be seen, or will be very hard to see with the naked eye, even under close examination. Suffice to say, on the wrist, in natural light, this dial looks much better and carries a great deal more charm than the photographs portray.

The Movement

As can be seen, just like the rest of this watch, the movement is amazingly clean and well cared for. Generally, a watch movement of this age will begin to show some tarnishing on some of its surfaces caused by moisture, but this movement has been kept in tip-top condition through regular servicing and proper care and attention. Again in concert with the condition of the rest of the watch, the movement indicates this watch has been treated with all the proper care it deserves.

The original Jaeger signed Calibre 285, 17 Jewel movement has been given a thorough overhaul and service by our vintage chronograph specialist watchmaker. This means the movement has been completely disassembled, cleaned, inspected and rebuilt using only the correct original parts where required before careful calibration and testing. Upon return to stock, the watch is now running to within +8 seconds per day! This is truly outstanding for any vintage watch of this age! When fully wound, this movement has a 40 hour power reserve. We therefore have no hesitations in offering this watch with our 12 months’ warranty*

With proper care and attention, we can see this watch lasting another lifetime of faithful service.

Please note – It is important to remember that after the chronograph function has been started through the operation of the top button, it should be stopped with the same button and then reset with the bottom button after use. i.e. the chronograph function is not designed to be left running and this will cause unnecessary increased wear.

*Please note – our 12 months’ warranty is only applicable if the full list price is paid.

The Watch Case

Gold Jaeger-LeCoultre chronographs from this period are rare, as most were made of steel or steel and gold. 18ct Pink Gold is the rarest, but pink gold chronographs of this size, at 37mm excluding the crown, are the rarest of all. Most were size 33mm and many were made in case sizes of 30 to 32mm. In fact, there was some competition among watch manufacturers to demonstrate which company could build smaller and smaller chronographs while still remaining accurate and reliable, which is of course, harder to do. But how times have changed!

Watches did not begin to have signed crowns until the late 1950s or 1960s and so this is the reason the crown is not signed by Jaeger.

The case is a heavy sturdy three-piece design with pleasing swept back lugs. The bezel has a small step which is a nice extra detail and overall it is a nice looking solid design without looking chunky or over-engineered. The case-back is of full thickness and has never been engraved. It is also tight fitting and presses back with a nice solid and reassuring ‘pop’. The case exterior carries the serial numer 135452.

The most remarkable aspect of this case, apart from its rarity, is its condition. It is simply superb. From each and every viewpoint it is very difficult to fault, with no signs of scratches, dings or damage visible to the naked eye. After cleaning and careful inspection for integrity, and then some very gentle hand-polishing, the case was very quickly brought back to the condition you see here.

Please note – our standard advice applies: Vintage Watches should be kept clean and dry at all times.

The Strap and Buckle

The watch is fitted with an original, genuine JLC black crocodile strap with the matching 18ct Pink gold JLC buckle. However, if a different colour or style of strap is preferred, please let us know and we will do our best to oblige, free of charge. We carry tan, conker, dark brown burgundy and black straps in stock, in plain, padded leather, alligator, crocodile or lizard skin.

Box and Papers

Although there are no original papers with this watch, the reference numbers, markings, signatures and hallmarks are all correct, dating this watch to 1945.

Detailed particulars will be included with our purchase receipt for your interest and security. A separate insurance valuation for the replacement value of this watch will be provided at the time of sale along with our unique ‘Lifetime Authenticity Guarantee’ which states: “If this watch proves to be anything less than totally authentic, or not as described, Vintage Gold Watches of London will offer you a full refund at any time”.

The original Jaeger-LeCoultre presentation box shown in the photographs is included.

If you would like to pay by bank transfer we will be pleased to assist you with this and pass on a 3% saving to you. Paying by bank transfer for a 3% saving will not affect your 12 months warranty. Similarly, if you wish to pay by International SWIFT or Bank Wire Transfer we will provide you with our BIC / Swift number and our IBAN number.

Please check the import duties and any taxes your government may apply, these are different for each country and unfortunately out of our control.

We understand there may be some ‘loopholes’ that may help you avoid these charges, however attempting to use these could impact our ongoing ability to serve our growing international customer base.

For those that happen to visit the UK on occasion we are of course more than happy to store your watch until we can meet you in our offices in Kensington, London, and your watch directly to you there.

As with all our watches, this watch will be sold under our 14 days no quibble sale or return policy.

In Conclusion

This is a simply beautiful vintage gold Jaeger-LeCoultre Chronograph and one which we have been very fortunate to acquire, own and admire, if only for a short while! However, we are very proud to offer this superb example here, in completely immaculate condition. It is many more times more stylish than a modern equivalent watch and even though around 70 years old, it is still completely fresh, reliable and practical to wear as an everyday watch, should you wish to do so. However you may look at it, this timepiece will make an excellent investment and heirloom piece, as well as be something to treasure and enjoy. As each year goes by and the world market for vintage gold watches grows ever larger, the limited supply allied to high demand means prices will inevitably climb ever higher!

A word on our prices – We always try our hardest to acquire the very highest quality watches we can find, before restoring them to the highest possible standards. We then offer these at the fairest prices we can, taking into account our pre and post-sales care and service. This approach means we will never be the cheapest, but nor will we be the most expensive. Indeed there are some well-known stores in West London which are highly successful charging between two to three times the price you see here. We, therefore, consider our prices to be fair, given the quality of watches we have to offer.

Please note, we also welcome part exchanges. If you have a watch or a small collection for sale, please contact us as we will be happy to discuss this.

We will also be happy to Service your watch, Repair your watch or Restore your watch, all at ‘sensible’ prices. Please see here.

If you have any questions please call us on 020 7727 7095 or if calling from overseas on +44 207 727 7095.

Please take a look at our other fine vintage gold watches.

Thank you.