IWC Cal.89 18ct Pink Gold 1953

IWC

It is said that owning a vintage IWC is something everyone with a serious interest in vintage watches should aspire to. A strong statement perhaps, but a little time spent researching IWC and their ’50s & ’60s watches, will very likely lead one to the same conclusion. In essence, this is because during the 1950s and 1960s, IWC determined they would manufacture some of the very best watches ever made and quite simply, this is what they achieved! The craftsmanship, technical excellence and sheer beauty of their exquisite movements and cases, manufactured during the ‘golden age’ of watch-making, has never been beaten – perhaps equalled occasionally, but never beaten!

An IWC is often referred to as a ‘watchmaker’s watch’. This is simply because watchmakers love them, both to work on and to own. This is due to the design, technical excellence and in particular, the sheer beauty of their watch movements.

Description

The watch here is highly impressive, not only for its wonderfully fully original, elegant dial, but also for being both oversized at 36mm in diameter and for having an 18ct pink gold case. The fully original, unrestored and untouched ‘freckle’ effect off-white dial is in truly amazing condition and shows some unique signs of ageing. However, what lies beneath is a truly iconic movement, the Calibre 89, which is considered to be one of the very best hand-wound movements of all time!

The Dial

The style of the dial is typically vintage IWC of this period. Clean, simple, elegant and totally understated. All the things we are accustomed to with IWC.  This is the classic and simple IWC dial which the company became known by, and which has become almost a trademark in itself.

This beautifully understated, original, unrestored and untouched off-white dial carries pink gold gilt ‘baton’ hour indices along with ‘3 – 6 – 9 – 12’ numerals and the original, unrestored pink gold ‘lance’ hands. As mentioned above, the dial has a wonderful, unique patina with some very even spotting which gives the dial this beautiful ‘freckle’ effect. The dial carries the infinitely more attractive, early ‘International Watch Company Schaffhausen’ signature and is signed ‘Swiss’ at the very bottom.

The dial has a great deal of appeal due to its classic signs of ageing and very even patina, including some beautiful golden brown fading and even spotting across the dial. Due to its relatively good condition and for reasons of retaining the character and the originality of the watch, we have left it completely alone. If however, you would prefer the dial sympathetically restoring, we will be happy to arrange this for you without any extra charge.

Please note, studio lights, professional-grade digital cameras, and macro lenses can be very unkind to an unrestored vintage watch dial. Also the dial here measures less than 1.25 inches across, so the image you’re seeing may be between 5 – 25 times larger than the watch itself. Therefore please keep in mind you are seeing many tiny flaws which cannot be seen, or will be very hard to see with the naked eye, even under close examination. Suffice to say, on the wrist, in natural light, this dial looks much better and carries a great deal more charm than the photographs portray.

The Movement

Many consider the IWC Calibre 89 to be one of the great hand-wound movements of the 20th century. This movement was originally developed in 1946 by the genius of watchmaking, Albert Pellaton, who designed this movement to meet the most demanding and highly rigorous specifications of the British Ministry of Defence. Each movement went through a 44-day testing period in five positions and a a range of temperature from -5° to +46° C. It was produced for military use, continuously for over 30 years and became ‘The standard’ for all military-grade timepieces. The movement also became an IWC mainstay for the commercial market, remaining in production until the mid-1990s.

We have already touched on the craftsmanship and sheer beauty of IWC movements. Some examples of the extra care and attention are the finishing applied to the bridges or plates, characterised by a series of arc-grained bars etched lightly onto bridges or plates, creating a wave-like effect. This is known as a ‘Geneva Wave’ finish. Furthermore, all the edges of the plates are beautifully bevelled which is very difficult and time-consuming to achieve. Lastly, each of the ruby jewels is set in brass ‘chantons’ which are then screwed into the plates rather than setting the jewel directly into the plates. This is the kind of detail which sets IWC apart.

The movement has been fully overhauled by a Master Watchmaker. This means stripping the watch down to all its component parts, careful inspection under high magnification, replacement where necessary with only genuine IWC parts, then careful reassembly and adjustment before final calibration in 5 positions. The watch winds, sets and runs accurately and reliably within +8 seconds per day, averaged over 5 positions which is outstanding for any watch of this age. We are therefore highly confident in offering a 1-year warranty with this watch movement.

The movement is correctly signed ‘International Watch Co’ and ‘Swiss’ and carries the Calibre number 89 and the movement serial number 1632039, dating this watch to 1953.

*Please note – our 12 months warranty is only included if the list price is paid.

The Case

The very high quality, oversized 18ct pink gold watch case measures an impressive 36mm in diameter, excluding the correct unsigned crown. The case is of a sturdy three-piece design and the press-fit case-back fits back with a very solid and reassuring click. Importantly, it is also of full thickness and has never been engraved.

The condition of the watch case is truly immaculate with no scratches, dings or other damage visible to the naked eye and has therefore simply required a professional clean and gentle hand-polish, to bring back the almost new look of the watch. As can be seen, all the edges are as crisp as the day the watch left the factory, which is totally amazing.

Inside the case-back we find the case is all correctly signed with Swiss Geneva 18ct hallmarks and the case serial number 1341858.

Please note – as ever, our standard advice applies: Vintage watches should be kept clean and dry at all times.

The Strap and Buckle

The watch is fitted with a high quality dark brown leather strap and a plain pink gold-plated buckle which we feel suits the watch perfectly. However, if a different colour or different style of strap is preferred, please let us know and we will do our best to provide your choice, free of charge. We carry tan, conker, dark brown and black in stock in plain padded leather, crocodile skin or lizard skin and can also obtain most types and colours from our partners at ‘Watch Obsession’ within 48hrs. Please take a look at their huge range of 18mm straps if you wish here.

The Box and Papers

Although there are no original papers with this watch, the movement, case numbers and hallmarks all match, dating the watch to 1953.

Detailed particulars will be included with our purchase receipt for your interest and security. A separate insurance valuation for the replacement value of this watch will also be provided at the time of sale along with our unique ‘Lifetime Authenticity Guarantee’ which states: “If this watch proves to be anything less than 100% genuine, authentic and original, a full refund will be given at any time”.

The high quality hardwood presentation box shown in the photographs is included in the sale.

Payment and Delivery

If you would like to pay by bank transfer, we will be pleased to assist you with this and pass on a 3% saving to you. Paying by bank transfer for a 3% saving will not affect your 12 months warranty. Similarly, if you wish to pay by International SWIFT or Bank Wire Transfer we will provide you with our BIC / Swift number and our IBAN number.

Please check the import duties and any taxes your government may apply as these are different for each country and unfortunately out of our control. We understand there may be some ‘loopholes’ that may help you avoid these charges, however, attempting to use these could impact our ongoing ability to serve our growing international customer base.

For those who happen to visit London on occasion, we are, of course, more than happy to store your watch until we can meet you in our offices in Kensington, London, and hand your watch directly to you there.

As with all our watches, this watch will be sold under our 14 days no-quibble sale or return policy.

In Conclusion

This beautiful 1953 vintage IWC is in superb condition, ready for use and completely practical and wearable today. It represents excellent value for money especially in such superb condition and is a highly desirable vintage gold watch from one of horology’s most respected names which will provide an excellent investment as well as be something to treasure and enjoy!

A word on our prices – We always try our hardest to acquire the very highest quality watches we can find, before restoring them to the highest possible standards. We then offer these at the fairest prices we can, taking into account our pre and post-sales care and service. This approach means we will never be the cheapest, but nor will we be the most expensive. Indeed there are some well-known stores in West London which are highly successful charging between two to three times the price you see here. We therefore consider our prices to be fair, given the quality of watches we have to offer.

If you have any questions, please call us on 0207 727 7095 or if calling from overseas on +44 207 727 7095.

Please note, we welcome part exchanges. If you have a watch or small collection for sale, please contact us as we will be happy to discuss.

We will also be happy to Service your watch, Repair your watch or Restore your watch, all at sensible prices. Please see here.

Please take a look at our other fine vintage gold watches.

Thank you.