Chrono Suisse Chronograph 18ct Pink Gold c1950

Chrono Suisse

During the 1950s and 1960s Chronographe Suisse became one of the largest suppliers of Chronographs to the mainstream market. The company focussed almost exclusively on the Chronograph market and sold Chronographs under the brands “Chrono Swiss” and “Chrono Suisse” as well as a number of lesser-known names. In common with all but a few watch brands, Chrono Suisse did not actually produce its own in-house chronograph movements. Most of its watches, whether self-branded or branded by others, had Swiss Venus, Landeron or Valjoux movements.

Commonly used movements by Chrono Suisse included the cam-operated Landeron Calibre 48 (over 3.5 million of which were produced), featuring a conventional two-button layout, after the three-button Calibre 47. This movement was a little unusual since the pusher at 2 o’clock started the seconds, while the one at 4 o’clock both stopped and reset it. This was a hand-wound movement with 17 jewels, 18,000vph (2.5Hz) and a 42-hour power reserve.

Landeron was established in 1873, but it wasn’t until 1924 that the company produced chronograph movements (and 1925 when it went by the name Landeron).

After losing its way, along with many other watch companies during the Quartz crisis of the 1980s, Chrono Suisse was revived again in 2010 and is a now growing watch brand once more.

Description

The watch we see here is a large 36.5mm, 18ct pink gold Chrono Suisse with a rare, original black dial. The watch dial is completely unrestored and untouched and is in tip-top condition. This watch houses the Landeron Calibre 48 movement described above, which is highly regarded for its accuracy and reliability. This watch is in excellent all-round condition and is ready to go, having just received a full overhaul and service from our vintage chronograph specialist watchmaker.

The Dial

Even though this is a very early watch, it has an original, twin register black dial which has never been restored or retouched. Original unrestored dials of watches over 50 years old are subject to damage from a combination of sunlight, heat, condensation and pollutants which almost always causes fading, staining and oxidisation in the form of spotting or pitting. Other accidental damage often occurs when servicing a watch in the form of scratches and other marks. Here, the dial is in tremendous condition considering it is 70 years old.

Please note, our photographs are some of the most revealing available on any vintage watch site because we use very large photographs taken with a high definition camera with a high magnification macro lens. However, this, as in this case, can be very unkind to an unrestored vintage watch dial. This is because to the naked eye, almost all the flaws you may see in the dial here, cannot be seen unless one has 20:20 vision and holds the watch 6 inches from one eye with the other closed!

On the wrist, the dial actually looks in remarkably good condition with hardly any damage visible. The dial is therefore in exceptional condition for its age and so for reasons of originality, character and charm, we have left it completely alone and untouched rather than restore it. This is also because some collectors of this type of watch often prefer original unrestored dials. If however, upon purchase, you would prefer to have the dial restored to its original condition, we will be happy to arrange this for you at 50% off our published price.

This twin register chronograph dial with pink Arabic (standard) numerals is complemented by the original, restored pink gilt steel ‘Lance’ style hands which are in excellent condition. An inner scale in white, shows a Tachymeter scale, used in conjunction with the chronograph function to measure speed, or distance travelled. A central, time-only chapter ring uses Arabic (standard) numerals in pink. The next ring out, in pink shows minutes and seconds, with seconds subdivided into fifths. Next, we have a white Telemeter scale,  used to measure the distance between an event and an observer based on the speed of sound – typically in the field of battle referencing gun flash and the arrival of its sound. All of this provides the dial with a highly technical look and the style and combination of colours is totally charming and very much of its time.

As with most chronographs, the left-hand dial is used to continuously read seconds, whether or not the centre seconds hand / chronograph function is operating. The right-hand register records elapsed minutes while the chronograph is running. This, and the centre seconds hand are started as soon as the top pusher is pressed. These are then stopped on this movement by a press of the bottom pusher, to record the elapsed time in seconds and minutes. Both hands are then reset to zero by a single press of the bottom pusher. Each of the pushers works perfectly with a lovely smooth action.

Please note it is not necessary, or wise, to leave the chronograph function running while the watch is in normal use, ie simply while wearing the watch. This is because the chronograph function is designed for measuring small time intervals and leaving this running will cause undue wear on a chronograph movement.

The lens has been replaced with a new original replacement part.

The Movement

As mentioned above, this watch houses its original well-proven Landeron Calibre 48 movement which is very highly regarded for its accuracy and reliability.

This particular watch movement is in superb condition having been fully overhauled and serviced by our vintage chronograph specialist watchmaker. This involves the complete dismantling of the movement to each of its component parts, ultrasonic cleaning, microscope inspection and replacement of parts as required – only with new originals – then careful reassembly and oiling, ready for final testing and careful calibration.

Each of the chronograph functions operate perfectly and the centre seconds hand resets itself instantly on pressing the bottom pusher. The normal timekeeping function is also running perfectly, having been calibrated and timed at +9 seconds per day, which is truly outstanding for any watch of this age. The watch also has a power reserve of 40 hours in its fully wound state. The movement is correctly signed ‘Chronographe Suisse’.

With care and with regular servicing, say every 4 years, we would fully expect this watch to run quite happily for many decades to come. Our watchmaker commented that he found the movement to be especially clean and in excellent condition. we are therefore more than happy to offer this watch with our 12 months’ warranty* and to assist with servicing again in the future.

*Please note – our 12 months’ warranty is only applicable if the list price is paid.

The Watch Case

The 18ct pink gold case is of a bold, three-piece design and at 36.5mm, excluding the correct crown, this is a very large-sized watch for the period. The case-back is of full thickness and has never been inscribed.

This watch case has been carefully inspected for fatigue marks and there are none. It has recently completed a full restoration by our team and is in excellent condition. Even under close examination, there are few scratches, dings or signs of wear visible to the naked eye, leading us to suspect that this watch has seen very little real use.

As ever, our standard advice applies: Vintage watches should be kept clean and dry at all times.

The Strap and Buckle

The strap fitted is a new black Crocodile strap with a gold plated buckle. If a different colour or style of strap is preferred, please let us know and we will do our best to oblige free of charge. We carry Tan, Conker, Dark Brown and Black in stock and in plain padded leather, or crocodile skin or lizard skin. For a wider selection, please take a look at the wonderful choice of 18mm straps offered by our suppliers Watch Obsession here. We will be pleased to order and fit the strap of your choice, within 24 – 48 hours.

The Box and Papers

Although there are no original papers with this watch, the numbers and markings on the watch are all correct, dating the watch to circa 1950.

A detailed written receipt with 12 months’ warranty* and a separate insurance valuation for the replacement value will be provided at the time of sale, along with our unique ‘Lifetime Authenticity Guarantee’ which states: “If at any time, this watch proves to be anything less than totally authentic, or not as described, Vintage Gold Watches of London will offer you a full refund at any time”.

A high-quality hardwood presentation box is included in this sale.

In Conclusion

A fascinating watch which will undoubtedly make an excellent financial investment as well as be something to wear, treasure and enjoy! It is also practical for use as an everyday wristwatch should you so wish and if it continues to be well cared for and serviced every 4 years, it will last another lifetime at least. This watch carries a great deal more style, individuality and panache than a new watch and to buy the same quality today would be very difficult.

However you may wish to view this watch, as each year goes by and the world market grows ever larger, the limited supply and high demand for the finest vintage gold watches means prices will inevitably climb ever higher!

A word on our prices – We always try our hardest to acquire the very highest quality watches we can find, before then restoring them to the highest possible standards. We then offer these at the fairest prices we can, taking into account our pre and post sales care and service. This approach means we will never be the cheapest, but nor will we be the most expensive. Indeed there are some well-known stores in West London which are highly successful charging between two to three times the price you see here. We therefore consider our prices to be good value and very fair, given the quality of watches we have to offer.

We are happy to accept payment via PayPal as this is the quickest method of payment. However, if you would like to pay by UK cheque or by bank transfer, we will be pleased to assist you with this and pass on a 3% saving to you.

If you have any questions please call: 0207 727 7095 or if calling from overseas: +44 207 727 7095.

Please note, we also welcome part exchanges.

Please take a look at our other vintage gold watches.

Thank you.