Longines is one of the oldest Swiss watch manufacturers with an unparalleled history of invention, innovation, patents and awards. They are also responsible for some of the most beautiful watches ever made. Something of a Cinderella among the watch collecting fraternity until recently, Longines is now rightfully returning towards the elevated status they once held in the pre and post-war years when they competed head to head with the very best among the Swiss watch manufacturers. It is really only within the past three years that Longines vintage watches have returned to the admiration and popularity they deserve with values rising on average by 15 – 20% per year. On certain models however, such as the now legendary Longines Calibre.13ZN chronograph, prices have sky-rocketed.
Here we have a perfect example of style and elegance from 1954 when Longines technically, were probably at their peak and competing head to head, on level terms with all of the top tier Swiss watch manufacturers.
It is an immaculate vintage Longines 14ct gentleman’s dress watch with subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock. The outstanding features of this watch are its superb quality Imperial style watch case with its flying lug frames and a beautiful pure white dial with applied gilt indices, all a wonderful combination of simple elegance and pure class. This watch is in simply amazing condition in every aspect.
The Watch Dial
To many eyes, a Longines dress watch has always been a step ahead in terms of elegance and sophistication. The design of their classic range of watch dials has been not only clean and simple, but party to the ‘less is more’ philosophy. There are few watches outside of Patek Philippe and Longines where this approach is adhered to so closely and at first, this ‘look’ can seem a little underwhelming, but gradually as in many aspects, design, form and function wins through and becomes a ‘modern classic’, making other watch dial designs busy and unnecessarily fussy by comparison and often just plain wrong.
So here we have a design, gradually evolved from previous generations, pared back, which really became the classic look for both Longines and Patek Philippe, during the 1950s and ’60s. The applied single baton hour indices, with double batons at 12, 3, 6, and 9 is so simple and yet so absolutely right and all that is required to give the watch dial coherence. The ‘Fils’ or ‘Sword’ hands again are an exercise in minimalism and balance the dial beautifully. Even the dial signature and gilt ‘winged hourglass’ brand balances the dial beautifully above the subsidiary seconds dial with its cross-hairs below. Clean and simple perhaps, but the longer one looks, the more one begins to appreciate just how ‘right’ the dial is. The essence of good design in fact. Classy and understated could equally apply to this watch and by extension the Longines range and the company, during the 1950s and ’60s and to some extent, the ’70s.
This is the original dial which has been restored to the very highest standards by the best dial restorers in the UK.
The Watch Case
The high quality 14ct solid yellow gold case is a quite unique and attractive design. Elegant and Imperial in style, the watch case is 44mm lug to lug and 32mm in diameter, not including the crown. Although slightly small in diameter by modern standards, the wide bezel and the flying lug frames, add significantly to the ‘presence’ of this watch.
The case was manufactured in the U.S. by Longines’ American partner, Longines – Wittnauer of New York, as marked on the inside of the case-back, along with 14K, the case number 2628772 and model reference 2126P.
This watch has obviously been well loved, having seen only occasional use, as evidenced by the bubble case-back in particular, which is completely scratch free. The rest of the case has no marks, dings or scratches visible to the naked eye and has only required a professional clean and light hand polish as part of the restoration of the watch.
The original high-grade Cal. 23Z 17 Jewels hand wound movement, just like all Longines movements is highly regarded, highly accurate and reliable. Longines watch movements have always been revered among watchmakers which has driven the collectibility of their watches in recent years.
Following its restoration, the movement, as can be seen, is now in sparkling ‘as new’ condition, signed ‘Longines Watch Co Swiss’, 17 Jewels, 23Z with serial No.9251930 which dates the watch to 1954. The movement has just been fully overhauled and serviced by our watchmaker and it is calibrated to run arrow straight within +7 second/day, with a 44-hour power reserve when fully wound. This is no exaggeration. We have checked the test results on our electronic watch time-grapher and we have no reservations in providing 12 months written warranty with this watch*
This watch is perfectly suited for regular daily use and with care and regular servicing, say every 2–3 years, we are confident this watch will run quite happily and reliably, probably for another lifetime!
The Strap and Buckle
The strap fitted is a new high-quality brown leather strap with a gold plated buckle. Please note if a different colour or style of strap is preferred, please let us know and we will do our best to oblige, free of charge. We carry tan, conker, dark brown and black in stock and in plain padded leather, or crocodile skin or lizard skin. Please do let us know if you have unusually large or small wrists, to enable us to match the strap accordingly,
The Box and Papers
Although there are no original papers with this watch, the numbers and markings on the watch are all correct, dating the watch to 1954. A detailed written receipt with a 12-month warranty* and a separate insurance valuation for the replacement value will be provided at the time of sale. A good quality presentation box will be included in the sale.
Here we have a most attractive and highly individual vintage watch from what is increasingly becoming one of the most collectable and highly regarded vintage watch brands.
A word on our prices… We always try our hardest to acquire the very highest quality watches we can find, before then restoring them to the highest possible standards. We then offer these at the fairest prices we can, taking into account our pre and post sales care and service. This approach means we will never be the cheapest, but nor will we be the most expensive. Indeed there are some well-known stores in West London which are highly successful charging between two to three times the price you see here. We, therefore, consider our prices to be fair, given the quality of watches we have to offer.
We are happy to accept payment via Paypal as this is the quickest method of payment. However, if you would like to pay by UK cheque or by bank transfer, we will be pleased to assist you with this and pass on a 3% saving to you.
*Note – 12 Month warranty only included if the list price is paid.
If you have any questions please call our landline number 0207 727 7095 or our mobile 07515 949250
Or if calling from overseas, our landline number is +44 207 727 7095 or our mobile +44 7515 949250 or send us a mail to email@example.com.
Please note we welcome part exchanges.
Please take a look at our other vintage gold watches.