Longines is one of the oldest Swiss watch manufacturers with an unparalleled history of invention, innovation, patents and awards. The company is also responsible for some of the most beautiful watches ever made, but something of a Cinderella among the watch collecting fraternity until recently. Longines is now rightfully returning towards the elevated status it once held in the pre and post-war years when it competed head to head with the very best among the Swiss watch manufacturers. It is really only within the past three years that Longines vintage watches have risen again to the admiration and popularity they deserve, with values rising of by around 15 – 20% per year. On certain models however, such as the now legendary Longines Calibre.13ZN chronograph, prices have sky-rocketed.
Here we have a perfect example of style and elegance from 1962 when Longines technically, was probably at its peak and competing head to head with all of the top-tier Swiss watch manufacturers. An immaculate 1962 vintage Longines 18ct rare Pink Gold gentleman’s dress watch with subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock. Outstanding features of this watch include its beautiful dial with original Dauphine hands and matching pink gold indices and also the stunning condition of its pink gold case and its legendary Calibre 23Z movement, which is in sparkling condition.
The dial is classic Longines in that it is simple, clean, classy and understated. It is in the classic 1960s style with the use of simple applied baton hour indices in pink gold, over a silver-white starburst dial. The dial carries over hints of the 1950’s in its use of a subsidiary seconds dial and thin Dauphine hands. Longines always seem to achieve more highly, with dials which are that bit closer to classic perfection, than pretty much any other watch manufacturer, yet they seem to do this so effortlessly and so often. Even the name and the brand look more ‘in place’ than any other, which incidentally is the oldest registered of any watch manufacturer. The company certainly made a fine art of this during the 1960s, when perhaps through trying that bit harder, employing the best dial designers or perhaps simply through having done this longer than most, its dial are in a class above the rest. Longines has won many loyal customers, attracted by their sense of style, who later came to appreciate the accuracy and reliability of their movements and the quality of the construction of their watch cases.
This is the original dial which has been restored to the highest standards by the best dial restorers in the UK.
The original Longines Calibre 23Z, 17 Jewel hand wound movement is a real treasure, with gold chatons and screwed balance, Swiss lever escapement, Super-shock-resist and subsidiary seconds. This is much admired in watchmaking circles, particularly the large, screw weighted balance wheel which allows for greater accuracy and finer adjustment. Everything else being equal, the larger the balance wheel, the more accurate the watch.
The Calibre 23Z was derived from the hugely successful Calibre 23M introduced in 1939, which, in turn, was derived from the calibre 10.68Z movement that had made its debut in 1932.
If ever one needed to show a great example of a top quality classic hand wound watch movement, this could easily be chosen. The quality of finishing and build is exceptional and better finished than anything offered by Rolex of the same period. Note, for example, each jewel is held in its own threaded gold sleeve, which is then in turn screwed into the plates. This is a much more sophisticated method than those which simply fitted their jewels into drilled holes in the bridges, such as was the practice of Rolex and Omega of the same period.
As can be seen, the movement is in tip-top condition having just completed an overhaul and service by our watchmaker. This means it has been completely disassembled, cleaned, inspected and rebuilt using only original Longines parts where required. When tested and calibrated, this watch was running to within +4 seconds per day, which is outstanding for a vintage watch of this age. This movement also has a power reserve of 44hrs. The movement is correctly signed ‘LONGINES’, ‘SWISS’ and ‘17 JEWELS’, with the Calibre number 23Z and the movement serial number 12320448 which dates the watch to 1962.
These movements are robust, reliable and accurate making this watch perfectly suited for regular everyday use. This particular movement is in top condition and with regular servicing, every 2 to 3 years we would fully expect this watch to provide faithful service for many more decades to come! We are therefore pleased and confident to offer a 12-month warranty on this watch movement* and all servicing in the future.
The Watch Case
18ct Pink Gold Longines watches are much rarer than yellow gold and this original three piece, press-fit watch case is in tip-top condition. The watch case is beautifully constructed, the lugs are straight and swept back and the case-back is rounded and blemish free. In fact, from any viewpoint, there are no scratches dings or other marks visible to the naked eye on this case.
The case measures 33mm in diameter, not including the Longines signed crown. The watch measures 38mm lug to lug and is quite thin at 8.5mm in depth.
Inside the case-back, the case is correctly marked with the Longines winged hourglass logo which is actually the oldest registered trademark for a watchmaker. The case-back also carries Swiss 18ct hallmarks and again demonstrating great attention to detail, the serial number of the case, 13229036, matches the serial number of the movement. This is something else not often found on other manufacturers watches.
The Strap and Buckle
The strap fitted is a lightly used genuine Longines burgundy lizard strap with a Longines pink gold plated buckle. Please note if a different colour or style of strap is preferred, please let us know and we will do our best to oblige free of charge. We carry tan, conker, dark brown and black in stock and in plain padded leather, or crocodile skin or lizard skin.
The Box and Papers
Although there are no original papers with this watch, the numbers and markings on the watch are all correct, dating the watch to 1962. A detailed written receipt with a 12-month warranty* and a separate insurance valuation for the replacement value will be provided at the time of sale, along with our unique ‘Lifetime Authenticity Guarantee’ which states: “If at any time, this watch proves to be anything less than totally authentic, or not as described, Vintage Gold Watches of London will offer you a full refund at any time”.
The hardwood presentation case shown in the photographs is included with this watch.
Here we have a beautiful and high class vintage watch from one of the most collectable and highly regarded vintage watch brands and this watch will make an excellent financial investment as well as something to treasure and enjoy! It is completely practical for use as an everyday watch and as long as it is well looked after and serviced every 2-3 years, it will last another lifetime. It carries a great deal more style, individuality and panache than a new watch and to buy the same quality today would cost at least three or four times the price here.
However, you may wish to view this, as each year goes by and the world market for fine vintage gold watches grows even larger, the limited supply and high demand means prices will inevitably climb even higher!
A word on our prices… We always try our hardest to acquire the very highest quality watches we can find, before then restoring them to the highest possible standards. We then offer these at the fairest prices we can, taking into account our pre and post sales care and service. This approach means we will never be the cheapest, but nor will we be the most expensive. Indeed there are some well-known stores in West London which are highly successful charging between two to three times the price you see here. We therefore consider our prices to be good value and very fair, given the quality of watches we have to offer.
We are happy to accept payment via Paypal as this is the quickest method of payment. However, if you would like to pay by UK cheque or by bank transfer, we will be pleased to assist you with this and pass on a 3% saving to you.
*Note – 12 Month warranty only included if the list price is paid.
If you have any questions please call on Landline 0207 727 7095 or Mobile 07515 949250
Or if calling from overseas on Landline +44 207 727 7095 or Mobile +44 7515 949250
Please note we welcome part exchanges.
Please take a look at our other vintage gold watches.